Angkor Wat Bas-Reliefs

Narrative and exquisitely carved

Known for its immensity, grandeur, and architectural brilliance, Angkor Wat is the largest religious monument in the world and one of the most visited. Located in Siem Reap, Cambodia, this sprawling complex was originally a Vishnu temple built by the Khmer King Survarman II in the 12th century. It was later converted into a Buddhist monument by the kings who came after him.

Angkor Wat also offers a glimpse of the day-to-day life during the heyday of the Khmer civilization through its intricately-carved numerous bas-reliefs carved on its galleries, pediments of gopuras, and pillars depicting scenes based mostly on the Hindu epics, Ramayana and Mahabharata, and ancient Hindu texts, such as the Puranas. Although there are bas-reliefs on the upper-level galleries and pediments, the bas-reliefs on the lower-level galleries are extensive and detailed.

The lower-level galleries are in a rectangular structure built at the periphery of the lower enclosure. On each side of this structure, there are two sections of continuously carved bas-reliefs. In total, there are eight sections of bas-reliefs, each with a different theme. The bas-reliefs are carved on the polygonal walls of the structure, and most of them have two or three tiers in the vertical direction. Many of the bas-reliefs have polished appearance, and a few still have traces of original paint, especially red.

Unlike the majority of Hindu temples, which are east-facing and where the visitors follow the pradakshina patha (clockwise circumambulation path), Angkor Wat is west-facing and the visitors follow the counter-clockwise path starting from the main entrance, which is in the middle of the west side gallery.

Angkor Wat Temple Layout
Angkor Wat Temple Layout

West Gallery, South Section: Battle of Kurukshetra

The Battle of Kurukshetra is the theme in the southern section of the west gallery. Based on the Hindu epic Mahabharata, this bas-relief depicts the fighting scene between the Pandavas and Kauravas.

The image below shows the advancing Kaurava army. On the top-left corner, Bhishma, the commander of the Kaurava army, is seen lying on the bed of arrows fired by Arjuna.

Death of Bhishma

The death of Bhishma is a well-known episode in Mahabharata. According to the story, Bhishma, the grand-uncle of both the Kauravas and Pandavas, leads the Kaurava army for the first ten days of the battle. As the Kurukshetra Battle rages, Krishna realizes Bhishma is an obstacle to Pandava’s victory because Arjuna is unable to beat Bhishma in the battle. To ensure Pandava’s victory, Krishna devises a clever plan involving Shikhandi, a eunuch, to kill Bhishma. Krishna knew Bhishma took an oath not to fight the other gender.

As per the plan, Shikhandi accompanies Arjuna in his chariot on the tenth day of the battle. When the battle starts between Arjuna and Bhishma, Arjuna hides behind Shikhandi and fires arrows at Bhishma. Unable to fight back because of his oath, Bhishma lays down his arms. As Arjuna’s arrows pierce through Bhishma’s body, he falls down making it appear as if he is lying on the bed of arrows. See the image on the right side.

Raging Battle

Battle of Kurukshetra bas-relief depicting melee of Kaurava and Pandava warriors carved in Angkor Wat, Siem Reap, Cambodia
Battle of Kurukshetra bas-relief depicting melee of Kaurava and Pandava warriors

The image depicts the fight between the Kaurava and Pandava armies. The Kaurava warriors are moving from left to right, and the Pandava warriors are from right to left. The commanders are on the chariots.

South Gallery, West Section: Procession of King Suryavarman II

The Procession of King Suryavarman II is the theme of the western section of the south gallery. Unlike the other bas-relief themes, this is based on history. It depicts King Suryavarman II in a procession with his commanders, soldiers, courtiers and ordinary people. The commanders are on elephants, and the rank of commander is indicated by the number of parasols surrounding them.

Suryavarman II as the King

Bas-relief of Khmer King Suryavarman II, the builder of Angkor Wat, in Siem Reap, Cambodia
Bas-relief of Khmer King Suryavarman II, the builder of Angkor Wat

As you can see from the image, King Suryavarman II is elegantly seated on his throne with his legs on the seat – a typical Indian way of sitting. He is portrayed with beautiful jewelry on his body as per the custom in India and Indianised kingdoms in Southeast Asia. He is wearing bracelets and arm rings on his hands, anklets on his legs, a beautiful necklace around his neck and an udiyan (waist chain) around his waist. He is holding with his right hand a strange object believed to be a dead snake, the significance of which is a mystery.

Surrounding King Suryavarman II are his attendants waving pankahs (fans) with long handles and chauris (fly-whisks). Notice the parasols around the king. There are fifteen of them in this bas-relief. The number of parasols indicate the rank of a commander in his army. The king has the highest number of parasols among the commanders in the procession implying that he is the commander-in-chief.

Suryavarman II as the Commander-in-Chief

Bas-relief of depicting King Suryavarman II as the commander-in-chief in Angkor Wat, Siem Reap, Cambodia
King Suryavarman II as the commander-in-chief

Standing majestically on top of the elephant is King Suryavarman II as the commander-in-chief of his army. His left hand is holding a sword that is pointing downwards, and his right hand is holding an unknown object (probably a weapon). Sitting in front of him is the mahout goading the elephant with an ankusha, which is a pointed tool with a hook used in India and Southeast Asia for training and controlling elephants.

Notice the parasols surrounding the king. There are fifteen of them in this bas-relief. The number of parasols surrounding a commander indicates his rank in the army. The king has the highest number of parasols among the commanders in the procession implying that he is the commander-in-chief.

A Commander

A commander riding an elephant in the procession of King Suryavarman II
A commander riding an elephant in the procession of King Suryavarman II

The image shows an army commander standing majestically on an elephant. He is holding a shield with his left hand and an unknown object with his right hand (similar to the one held by the king). Sitting in front of him is the mahout goading the elephant with an ankusha.

Other Participants

The image on the left shows a contingent of Siamese soldiers carrying spears marching at the head of the parade. Behind them is their commander riding an elephant. The image on the right shows women marching along the procession.

South Gallery, East Section: Swargas and Narakas (Heavens and Hells)

Three tiers of the Heavens and Hells bas-relief carved on the eastern section of the south gallery
A section of the Heavens and Hells bas-relief carved on the eastern section of the south gallery

As the name suggests, the Heavens and Hells bas-relief is about the depiction of heavens and hells as described in the ancient Hindu texts called Puranas. The image shows a section of 200 feet long bas-relief carved into the eastern section of the southern gallery.

As you can see from the image, this section of the bas-relief has the following three horizontal layers:
1. Upper layer: Depicts swargas (heavens)
2. Middle layer: Depicts the bhoomi (earth)
3. Bottom layer: Depicts narakas (hells)

The entire Heavens and Hells bas-relief depicts 37 swargas and 32 narakas. The narakas are much more descriptive than the swargas. As you can see from the bottom layer, the punishment of sinners is gory and elaborate. Although naraka translates to hell, it is not the hell as understood in the West. A naraka is more akin to purgatory because it is not eternal and the sinners can redeem themselves once they pay for their sins. In Hindu mythology, sinners are reborn, but not always as human beings.

Yama’s Court

In Hindu mythology, Yama is one of the Ashta Dikpalas (guardians of the eight directions) and is responsible for guarding the South, which makes him the lord of the south. Therefore, the bas-reliefs related to Yama are in the south gallery.

The bas-relief on the left image depicts the Yama, the god of justice and lord of naraka, sitting on a buffalo and conducting the proceedings in his court. He is portrayed with multiple hands, one of which carries his signature weapon gada (mace), and is surrounded by his guards and sinners.

The bas-relief on the top right shows the continuation of Yama’s court where Chitragupta, a god in Hindu mythology and the assessor who keeps the records of good and bad deeds of a human being from birth to death, assisting Yama in determining who goes to heaven and who goes to hell.

The image on the bottom right shows the guards in the upper-tier pushing the sinners to the lower-tier through a trapdoor and the guards in the lower tier, which represents a naraka, punishing the sinners in a variety of ways.

Narakas – Punishing the Sinners

According to Hindu mythology, a naraka is designed to punish a specific type of sin. The images below show some of the 32 narakas depicted in the bas-relief.

East Gallery, South Section: Samudra Manthana

The south section of the east gallery depicts Samudra Manthana, one of the well-known legends of Hindu mythology. In Sanskrit, samudra means ocean and manthana mean churning. It is a story about the churning of the ocean to produce amrita, the nectar of immortality. This story appears in many Hindu epics, including Mahabharata and Vishnu Purana.

According to the story, devas (demigods) and asuras (demons) collaborate to produce amrita by churning the Ocean of Milk. To perform churning, they use Vasuki (king of nagas) as the rope and Mount Mandara as the churning rod. Vasuki is coiled around Mount Mandara with asuras are on the head side and devas are on the tail side of Vasuki.

The churning took 1000 years to complete resulting in many by-products, including 14 ratnas (precious things), one of them is amrita. The other ratnas include the Moon, Ramba (an apsara), Lakshmi (Goddess of Wealth). Produced along with amrita was halahala (poison) emanating from the mouths of Vasuki. Realizing the danger posed to the world by this poison, Shiva drank it but did not swallow it. So, it stayed in his throat forever. Shiva is therefore called Neelakanta (blue throat) as the result of poison remaining in his throat. Vasuki then became Shiva’s snake and remained coiled around his neck.

The left image shows asuras led by a multi-headed Ravana pulling Vasuki’s body on the head side. To the left of Ravana is the army of asuras on elephants and horses. The middle image shows Vishnu with four arms overseeing the churning at Mount Mandara and Indra flying on top of the mountain to stabilize it. The right image shows devas led by Hanuman pulling the body of Vasuki on the tail side. Although Ravana and Hanuman were not part of Samudra Manthana, their symbolic inclusion was to show that it was a fight between good and evil.

To the left and right of the Mount Mandara are the apsaras acting as cheer-leaders to asuras as well as devas. The bas-relief in this section is beautiful and intricately carved. Unlike the other bas-reliefs, it is easy to understand the story and identify the players.

East Gallery, North Section: Vishnu’s Victory over Asuras

A section of the Gods Vs. Asuras bas-relief depicting an asura commander on a chariot fighting the gods
A section of the Gods Vs. Asuras bas-relief depicting an asura commander on a chariot fighting the gods

The northern section of the east gallery is about Vishnu’s victory over asuras, a generic theme not taken from any epics. It is believed that this bas-relief was likely completed at a later date, probably in the 15th or 16th century.

The scenes depicted on the bas-relief carved on the eastern section of the north gallery is based on Krishna’s Victory over Banasura story, which appears in Mahabharata and Vishnu Purana. This story is about Krishna, who is an avatar of Vishnu, fighting Shiva and becoming victorious. It is not a well-known story but chosen deliberately to show the dominance of Vishnu because King Suryavarman II broke the Shaiva tradition of his predecessors and made Vishnu the dominant god of the Hindu Trinity.

Legend of Banasura

According to the story, Banasura, an asura king with thousand arms, is an ardent devotee of Shiva whom he tried to please by doing tapasu (austerity and meditation) for many years. Pleased with his devotion, Shiva confers upon him with many varas (boons), one of which was to be his ally in future fights. Once he gets these varas, Banasura becomes arrogant and starts ill-treating his subjects. When his daughter Usha reaches the marriageable age, many suitors approach her with an intention to marry. Banasura gets angry at the suitors and builds a fortress called Agnigraha (house of fire in Sanskrit) and imprisons her there to keep her away from them.

Angkor Wat - Krishna's Victory over Banasura bas-relief depicting Krishna riding Vishnu's vehicle Garuda and fighting Banasura
Krishna riding Vishnu’s vehicle Garuda and fighting Banasura
Angkor Wat - Vishnu's vehicle Garuda entering Agnigraha (House of Fire) in the Krishna's Victory over Banasura bas-relief
Garuda entering Agnigraha (house of fire) built by Bansaura

One day, Usha dreams of a young man and falls in love with him. When she mentions this to her maid Chitraleka, who realizes that the young man is Aniruddha, one of the grandsons of Krishna. Chitraleka with her superpowers summons Aniruddha to Usha’s quarters. When he sees Usha, he falls in love with her too. Meanwhile, Banasura comes to know of Aniruddha’s presence in Usha’s quarters. He captures and imprisons him. When Krishna comes to know about his grandson’s imprisonment, he wages war against Banasura. At the request of Banasura, Shiva keeps his promise and starts fighting against Krishna. Realizing this, Krishna tricks Shiva by firing a weapon that puts Shiva to sleep. Krishna then severs all but four arms of Banasura. Shiva then wakes up and begs Krishna not to kill Banasura. Meanwhile, Banasura realizing his mistakes begs forgiveness and allows his daughter to marry Aniruddha.

The image shows Garuda facing Agnigraha (house of fire) built by Bansaura to keep his daughter Usha.

North Gallery, West Section: Battle between Gods and Asuras

The theme of the bas-relief on the western section of the north gallery is not taken from any epics, instead, it depicts a generic theme of the good fighting evil. The bas-relief Battle between Gods and Asuras is about the Hindu pantheon of gods fighting the evil asuras. It is a battle scene with 21 Hindu gods mounted on their vehicles fighting the asuras.

The images below show four of the gods, Vishnu, Varuna, Indra, and Kartikeya (also known as Skanda, Subramanya), and an unidentified asura.

The gods are seen riding their signature vahanas (vehicles) and fighting asuras. Vishnu, one of the Hindu Trinity, is riding Garuda, an eagle-like mythical bird. Indra, the king of heaven and gods, is riding an elephant called Airavata. Varuna, the sea god, is riding a multi-headed mythical creature called Makara. Indra and Varuna are dikpalas (guardians of directions); Indra guards East and Varuna West. Check the Ashta Dikpalas page to read more about all the eight dikpalas. Skanda, the god of war, is riding a peacock called Parvani.

Brahma sitting in a cocoon in the Battle between Gods and Asuras bas-relief carved in the lower-level gallery of the Angkor Wat Temple
Brahma sitting in a cocoon in the Battle between Gods and Asuras bas-relief

The bas-relief of Brahma, one of the Hindu Trinity, sitting in a cocoon is unusual. Although Brahma is the creator in Hindu mythology, he is not worshiped widely like Vishnu or Shiva. There are very few temples dedicated to Brahma in the world. The Brahma Temple in Prambanan is one of the well-known temples in Southeast Asia. The Brahma Temple in Pushkar is one of the few temples dedicated to Brahma In India.

Check the following sculptural reliefs of Brahma on the outer walls of the temples: Brahma in Belur Chennakeshava Temple, Brahma in the Somanathapura Chennakeshava Temple in Karnataka, India

There are several legends why Brahma is not worshiped. According to one legend, his consort Savitri, who was angered by Brahma’s extreme lust, cursed him not to be worshiped anywhere in the world except in Pushkar. In another legend, Shiva cursed Brahma because he lied to him and Vishnu about their creation.

West Gallery, North Section: Battle of Lanka

The Battle of Lanka is the theme of the bas-relief carved on the northern section of the west gallery. This is the final battle in Ramayana in which Rama and the army of monkeys (Vanara Sené) defeat Ravana and rescue Rama’s wife Sita. The Battle of Lanka bas -relief is likely based on the Yudda Kanda chapter of Ramayana authored by Valmiki. Besides Rama and Ravana, it depicts many prominent figures from both sides.

After the abduction of Rama’s wife Sita by Ravana, Rama gathered an army with the help of his ally Sugriva, the king of the vanara (monkey) kingdom of Kishkindha, and attacked Lanka to rescue her. According to Ramayana, Lanka, where this epic battle took place, is an island located south of India. The present-day island nation of Sri Lanka closely fits the description of Lanka in Ramayana.

Ravana in the Battle of Lanka bas-relief carved in the lower-level gallery of the Angkor Wat Temple in Siem Reap, Cambodia
Ravana in the Battle of Lanka

According to Hindu mythology, Ravana is a rakasha (demon) with supernatural powers. He is capable of assuming any forms, but in his natural form, he has ten heads and twenty arms. His typical iconography shows him with these features. As you can see from the image, he does have ten heads and twenty arms. ,

In this bas-relief, Ravana is in battle mode leading his warriors in this epic battle against Rama. He is holding a variety of weapons with his hands, including bow and arrows, maces, and astras (arrows that posses supernatural destructive power). While Ravana is leading his charge, a monkey warrior is lunging at him on the leff. Ramayana describes this monkey warrior as Nila, the commander-in-chief of the vanara sené (monkey army) and builder of Rama Sethu (the bridge between India and Lanka). Charging with Ravana are his warriors carrying gadaas (maces).

Raging Battle between Rakshashas Vs. Vanara Sené (Army of Monkeys)

In this battle, Rama’s warriors are mostly the vanaras from his ally Sugriva. Ravana being a rakshasa (demon), his warriors mostly the rakshasas.

A combat scene in the Battle of Lanka relief depicting a monkey warrior straddled on the heads of two lions carved in the lower-level gallery of the Angkor Wat Temple in Siem Reap, Cambodia
A monkey warrior straddled on the heads of two lions

The entire Battle of Lanka bas-relief is about raging battle that is underway with the rakshasa and monkey warriors engaged in hand-to-hand combat. Straddled on the heads of two beautifully carved lions harnessed to a chariot is a ferocious monkey warrior carrying on his shoulder a rakshasa, who presumably is the charioteer. Notice that the rakshasa is wielding a sword and trying to attack the monkey warrior.

The images below show two more such scenes where a monkey warrior is dueling with a rakshasa.

Related Pages
Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom, Bayon, Ta Prohm, Banteay Srei
Phnom Kulen, Tonlé Sap, Cambodia
Bali, Prambanan, Prambanan Bas-Reliefs, Borobudur, Indonesia

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Phnom Kulen

Revered by Cambodians from all walks of life, Phnom Kulen (means Mountain of Lychees in Khmer) is the birthplace of the Khmer civilization. King Jayavarman II chose Phnom Kulen to found the Khmer Empire and declare himself a Chakravarty (King of Kings) in 802 CE. The kings who came after him expanded the empire and built numerous temples and monuments in and around Phnom Kulen.

Phnom Kulen is not a single mountain,  but a landscape covered with hills and hillocks separated by valleys and flatland. This land of exceptional beauty is now a part of Phnom Kulen National Park.

Legend of Mahendrparavata

Phnom Kulen was known as the Mahendraparvata during the Khmer period. In Sanskrit, mahendra means great Indra and parvata means mountain.

According to a local legend, Mahendraparvata is the mountain which Hanuman lifted to the battlefield in Lanka to extract Sanjeevini, a herbal plant that is capable of curing all diseases, to save Lakshmana from dying.

Location

Phom Kulen is located 30 miles northeast of Siem Reap.

Kbal Spean River

The Kbal Spean River is a small river flowing within the Phnom Kulen National Park.  It is a tributary to the Siem Reap River, which flows through the Angkor Wat Archaeological Site in Siem Reap, Cambodia.

The Kbal Spean River is known as the Sahasralinga River (River of One Thousand Lingas) because of the hundreds of lingas carved on its sandstone riverbed. Sahasra means a thousand in Sanskrit. The linga is a symbol of Shiva, one of the Hindu Trinity.

As you can see from the images below, the lingas are carved on the riverbed in a grid-like fashion. In addition to the lingas, the river has other sculptures carved on its riverbed and the rocks.

Natural Pool

The natural pool near shown in the image below is located near the Kbal Spean River. The water in this pool is a result of some geological activity occurring beneath the pool. It appears as though there is an underground spring under the pool. A small stream of water flows out of the pool into the Kbal Spean River. The water in the pool is not very hot but appears to contain a lot of minerals.

Freshwater pool near Kbal Spean River in Phnom Kulen National Park, Cambodia
The natural freshwater pool near Kbal Spean River in Phnom Kulen National Park

Waterfalls

The image below shows a spectacular view of the waterfall in Phnom Kulen, which is a major tourist attraction,  is visited by Cambodians who come here to dip in the pool at the bottom of the falls to atone their sins.

A Waterfall in Phnom Kulen, Cambodia
A Waterfall in Phnom Kulen, Cambodia

The waterfall shown below is located just above the larger one shown above.

A Waterfall in Phnom Kulen, Cambodia
A Smaller Waterfall in Phnom Kulen, Cambodia

Preah Ang Thom

Preah Ang Thom is a Buddhist monastery situated on a boulder in the Phnom Kulen National Park. It’s famous for the reclining Buddha statue carved out of the boulder.

Copyright © 2018 – 2019 by Lawrence Rodrigues. All rights reserved.

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Ta Prohm

Ta Prohm is one of the most visited temple complexes in Siem Reap, Cambodia. The temple complex is intermingled with tall trees, some of which have grown on top of structures with their roots flowing down to the ground, which makes a fascinating view.

Location

It is located a mile east of Bayon.

Archaeological Site

The Ta Prohm archaeological site was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1992. The Archaeological Society of India (ASI) has been collaborating with the Authority for the Protection and Management of Angkor and the Region of Siem Reap (APSARA) of Cambodia to conserve and restore the site.  The image below shows the layout of the site.

Layout of the Ta Prohm temple complex
The layout of the Ta Prohm temple complex

History

According to the inscription found inside the temple, King Jayavarman VII, who was a follower of Mahayana Buddhism, built Ta Prohm as a Buddhist monument in 1186 CE and dedicated it to his mother. It is believed that she is buried inside the temple complex. Ta Prohm also has two smaller temples inside the complex dedicated to his brother and guru (teacher).

Ta Prohm, which means Ancestor Brahma, was originally named Raja Vihara, which in Sanskrit literally means king’s rest house. But the term vihara was generally used in Buddhist texts to indicate a monastery. Therefore, Ta Prohm must have been a Buddhist monastery.

Layout

The layout and architecture of Ta Prohm are more like Banteay Srei than Angkor Wat. It is not a temple mountain like Angkor Wat, but rather like Banteay Srei having temple structures within the concentric enclosures.

Like most of the Hindu and Buddhist temples, Ta Prohm faces east. It has five concentric enclosures of rectangular shape with a wall surrounding each, but most of the walls have collapsed.

Temple Complex

The image shows the causeway and the entrance to the third innermost enclosure from the west side.

An entrance to the third enclosure of the Ta Prohm temple complex from the west side
An entrance to the third enclosure of the Ta Prohm temple complex from the west side

Ta Prohm has many temple structures with tall trees grown on top of them. The roots of the trees flow down to the ground covering parts of the structure. These scenes have fascinated people all over the world and tourists flock to see these fascinating structures that coexist with the jungle.

Ta Prohm temple structures with trees growing on top

Related Pages
Angkor Wat, Angkor Wat Bas-Reliefs, Angkor Thom, Bayon, Ta Prohm, Banteay Srei
Phnom Kulen, Tonle’ Sap, Cambodia
Bali, Prambanan, Borobudur, Indonesia

Copyright © 2018 – 2019 by Lawrence Rodrigues. All rights reserved.

Bayon

Bayon is a mysterious Buddhist temple constructed at the exact center of Angkor Thom. Whereas Angkor Wat gives an impression of a grandeur edifice with harmonious design and open spaces, Bayon appears like a jumble of disproportionate structures crammed in a small place, and yet it is one of the most visited sites in Siem Reap. Unlike Angkor Wat, the Bayon has neither the moat nor temple prakara (a protective wall surrounding the temple). Numerous towers with carved giant smiling faces pop up everywhere inside the temple.

Location

The Bayon Temple is located exactly at the center of Angkor Thom.

History

The temple was commissioned by Jayavarman VII in the late 12th century to be built as his state temple inside the capital city of Angkor Thom which he founded. As mentioned earlier, it was initially built as a Buddhist temple. However, it was converted to a Hindu temple by Jayavarman VIII and it appears many Buddha statues were destroyed and replaced with statues Shiva and Vishnu.

The original name of the Bayon was Vijayagiri (victory hill in Sanskrit). It was likely named after Khmer’s victory over the Champs, who ransacked Angkor Wat after the death of Suryavarman VII, the builder of Angkor Wat. The name Bayon is recent; It is a vernacular version of Banyan, the name given by the French because of the Banyan tree in the complex.

Temple Complex

The temple complex is small compared to the Angkor Wat and it does not have a moat or a prakara, but it does have three concentric enclosures with inner enclosures rising to a higher level. The enclosure has galleries with bas-reliefs on the walls. The bas-reliefs here are not as organized or theme-oriented as in Angkor Wat.

Lower Level

The lower level has three concentric square galleries close to each other.

Galleries

The image below shows a view of the temple with the south-side gallery on the right.

A view of the Bayon temple from the south side
A view of the Bayon temple from the south side

Bas-reliefs

The bas-relief depicts the actual events rather than the scenes from the epics as in Angkor Wat.

The image below shows the bas-relief depicting the naval battle in the Tonle Sap Lake between the Khmer and the Champs. This battle was fought in the 13th century ending in Khmer’s victory.

A section of the bas-relief on the lower level gallery of the Bayon temple depicting Khmer vs. Champs naval war
A section of the bas-relief on the lower level gallery of the Bayon temple depicting Khmer vs. Champs naval war

The images of the bas-reliefs below provide a glimpse of how the ordinary people lived in the 12th and 13 century under the Khmer rule.

Bas-relief depicting daily life in Khmer Empire

Upper Terrace

The upper terrace dominates with the towers carved with the giant smiling faces. Some of the towers have four faces, each in a cardinal direction leading some experts to believe that the statues represent the Hindu god Brahma. However, it was later established that the Bayon was a Buddhist monument.

These towers are close to each other and in no apparent order. The purpose of these towers is still a big mystery. There are many theories floating around to explain why they were constructed and whom they represent.

According to one theory, the faces represent Avalokitesvara, a Bodhisattva who embodies the values of Buddha. Another theory suggests the faces represent King Jayavarman VII himself who attained the title of Avalokitesvara. Note: It is not unusual to refer a king as Avalokitesvara in the Indian subcontinent during the period when Buddhism was dominant. 

The images below show the towers with four heads, each in a cardinal direction.

Copyright © 2018 by Lawrence Rodrigues. All rights reserved.

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Angkor Thom

Located a mile north of Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom is a city founded in the late 12th century by the famed Khmer King Jayavarman VII on the western banks of the Siem Reap River.  It served as the Khmer capital until the 17th century. The city now contains the ruins of several temples within its limits, some of them already existed when the city was founded and some of them were built by Jayavarman VII and his successors. The most significant among them is Bayon, which was commissioned by Jayavarman VII as the state temple.

The city of Angkor Thom has four gates, one each on the cardinal direction. The ruins of the south gate are one of the most photographed structures in Siem Reap and visited by most tourists.

South Gate

The south gate is on the banks of Siem Reap River, which flows into the Tonle Sap Lake.  The pathway leading to the gate is on a bridge over this river. Lined on the left side of the pathway are the statues of devas (demigods) and on the right side are the statues of asuras (demons). Both devas and asuras are sitting on the body of a naga (serpent).

The upper part of the gate has four towers, each of which is carved with a statue of the head pointing to a cardinal direction. Standing on the lower part on both sides of the doorway are the sculptures of Indra’s vehicle Airavata, which is a three-headed elephant. Above Airavata are the damaged and weathered statues of Indra and Devas.

Copyright © 2018 – 2019  by Lawrence Rodrigues. All rights reserved.

Angkor Wat

Dedicated originally to Vishnu, the magnificent temple complex of Angkor Wat is the largest religious monument built anywhere in the world. Considered an architectural marvel, the temple is an imposing sight with a majestic facade and five tall towers that can be seen from a distance. The symmetry and precision with which the temple complex was built are striking. Because of the symmetry, all the five towers on the top can only be seen at a certain angle.Built like a mountain having three concentric enclosures with inner enclosures higher than the outer ones, Angkor Wat is filled with repetitive and recursive structures that are pleasing to the eye. These structures include pillars, roofs, galleries, doorways with lintels and pediments, and gopuras (towers). In-spite of Angkor Wat’s grand scale, it gives an impression of a harmonious architecture because of its open spaces, the proportionality of the architectural elements and seamless blending with the surroundings.

Angkor Wat – An Architectural Marvel

Dedicated originally to Vishnu, the magnificent temple at Angkor Wat is the largest religious monument in the world. Considered an architectural marvel, it is an awe-inspiring sight with a majestic facade and five tall and imposing towers, which are visible from a great distance. The symmetry and precision with which the temple was built are striking. Because of the perfect symmetry, all the towers are only visible at a certain angle.

Built like a mountain consisting of three concentric enclosures with inner enclosures higher than the outer ones, Angkor Wat is filled with repetitive and recursive structures that are pleasing to the eye. These structures include pillars, roofs, galleries, doorways with lintels and pediments, and gopuras (towers). Despite Angkor Wat’s grand scale, it gives an impression of harmonious architecture because of its open spaces, the proportionality of the architectural elements and seamless blending with the surroundings.

Unlike many other famous monuments, it was never really abandoned and was in use continuously since its inception. Although it was built as a Hindu temple with cultural and religious influences from India, the architecture and building techniques were unique to Cambodia. There are no Hindu or Buddhist monuments in the Indian subcontinent that are as massive as Angkor Wat. The temple was built with local ingenuity and talent that existed for many centuries, even before the Khmer rulers came to power.

The people of Cambodia are very proud of their heritage, and it is evident from the fact that the Cambodian flag carries the image of Angkor Wat. During the civil war in the 70s and 80s, monuments did not suffer any damage as the rival sides were very protective of their heritage.

Archaeological site

Angkor Wat is a part of the larger Angkor Archaeological Park,  which was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1992. The preservation and restoration of Angkor Wat started in 1908 by the French and is now being undertaken by the Government of Cambodia with the help of many countries, including Japan, France, and India.

The erosion of the bas-reliefs, especially on the pediments of the doors, is significant compared to Banteay Srei, which was built 200 years before Angkor Wat. The main reason for this erosion is the quality and type of sandstone used.

History

Angkor Wat was built by King Suryavarman II in the 12th century at the height of Khmer civilization. The temple was originally dedicated to Vishnu, one of the Trimurti (Trinity) of Hinduism. Even though the predecessors of Suryavarman II were devotees of Shiva, he became a devotee of Vishnu for an unknown reason. The temple became a Buddhist monument later and underwent some changes.

By any stretch of imagination, building a monument of this magnitude is a massive undertaking. It is amazing how the structure as enormous as Angkor Wat was completed in 36 years. It uses more stone blocks than the Giza Pyramid. Almost every part of the building is decorated with intricate carvings and sculptures. According to an inscription, it took 300,000 workers and 6000 elephants to complete the job. The sandstone slabs needed to build the temple were quarried from the Phnom Kulen mountains and transported to the site using elephants.

Purpose

There is a lot of debate among experts as to why this massive monument was built. Some claim that it was built as a mausoleum for Suryavarman II, the Khmer king who commissioned this monument. Some believe his body was buried under the central tower of the temple.

The Khmer people practiced their religion by mixing their ancestral belief system with Hindu traditions and philosophy. The Khmer rulers started their own brand of Hinduism known as the Devaraja cult. According to this belief system, the king is a devaraja (god-king in Sanskrit) who is divine and allowed to rule with divine authority.

Although Angkor Wat was built as a Hindu temple, it broke many traditions of the Hindu temple architecture. The main one is its orientation. Whether it is in India or Southeast Asia, almost all the Hindu temples are built facing east, a direction considered sacred because the sun, a source of energy and light, rises in that direction. In contrast, the Angkor Wat Temple faces west, the sunset direction. This is one of the reasons why the experts believe Angkor Wat is more of a mausoleum than a temple.

Angkor Wat, the heavenly city of Vishnu

The original name of Angkor Wat was Vrah Vishnuloka, which in Sanskrit means the sacred abode of Vishnu. The name Angkor Wat became prevalent once the Khmer rulers started following Buddhism.

The name Angkor Wat means temple city in the Khmer language. The world angkor was derived from nakor, which was borrowed from the Sanskrit word nagara, which means city. Wat in Khmer means the temple. It is again derived from the Sanskrit word vata, which means enclosure.

As the name suggests, Angkor Wat is a city with a temple complex.  It covers an area of 200 hectares with many rectangular shaped concentric enclosures.

Moat

A section of the moat surrounding the Angkor Wat Temple complex in Siem Reap, Cambodia
Moat surrounding the temple complex

A large moat surrounds the city. As you can see from the image, the moat is still filled with water and has steps to access it. It is about 650 ft wide and 4 ft deep and encompasses the entire temple perimeter of 3 miles.

The moat served an important purpose from the architectural standpoint. It helped to stabilize the massive Angkor Wat structures by keeping the groundwater at a steady level, i.e., it acts as a reservoir that does not let the groundwater go down too low or high. This is one of the reasons why the Angkor Wat structures are almost intact even after 1000 years.

The next inner enclosure is the actual city that housed many royal buildings, none of which have survived. Experts believe the king and the nobility lived in these buildings.

Causeway

Restored statue of muti-headed naga at the beginning of the causeway of the Angkor Wat Temple in Siem Reap, Cambodia
A restored statue of seven-headed Sheshanaga at the beginning of the causeway

On the west side of Angkor Wat, there is a causeway that begins at the outer bank of the moat and ends at the temple complex. There is a similar causeway on the eastern side, but a shorter one. Both the causeways are built on top of the moat.

The image shows the statue of multi-headed Sheshanaga (king of serpents) at the beginning of the causeway.

Outer enclosure

The causeway over the moat leads to the main entrance of the outer enclosure of the temple. The entrance structure has three gopuras, the middle one being the taller than the other two and the entry point.

Entrance to the outer enclosure of the Angkor Wat Temple

Statue of Vishnu inside a gopura of the outer enclosure entrance
Statue of Vishnu inside a gopura of the outer enclosure entrance

The southern gopura of this structure shelters a statue of Vishnu, which according to some experts stood inside the principal sanctuary, i.e., the uppermost terrace of the temple.

The standard iconography of Vishnu shows him with four arms, but this sculpture has four additional arms. Vishnu with 8-arms is known as Ashtabhuja Vishnu (8-armed Vishnu).

Check the following pages for the other Ashtabhuja Vishnu depictions.

A spectacular view of the entrance from the top level

A view of the outer entrance from the top-most level of Angkor Wat Temple
A view of the outer entrance from the top-most level of Angkor Wat Temple

The image shows the space between the outer entrance and the temple complex. At the far end, the image shows part of the gallery consisting of three gopuras at the perimeter of the outer enclosure. The middle gopura is taller than the other two and is the entrance.

At the near end, the image shows the pediment of the door located on the lower level gallery. The bas-relief on the pediment depicts a scene from the Battle of Kurukshetra, an episode from the Hindu epic Mahabharata.

A library inside the outer enclosure
A library inside the outer enclosure

A causeway connects the outer entrance to the main entrance of the temple. The two similar looking library structures are situated on either side of the causeway.

The image shows one of the library structures seen in the above image.

Reflective ponds

North side pond on the outer enclosure of Angkor Wat in Siem Reap, Cambodia
North-side pond on the outer enclosure

The outer enclosure has two ponds, one on the south and another on the north. These ponds were not part of the original monument but were built sometime in the 16th century. The north side pond is where the tourists gather in the morning to view Angkor Wat at sunrise. If the weather is right, the sunrise offers a spectacular view of the temple with its reflection on the pond.

Magnificent temple complex built with symmetry and precision

The diagram shows the ground plan of the Angkor Wat Temple.  Note: It is not drawn to scale.

Angkor Wat Temple Layout
Angkor Wat Temple Layout

The Angkor Wat Temple is oriented along the east-west axis, and as mentioned before, it is facing west, i.e., the main entrance is on the west side. The layout of the structures is symmetrical about the east-west axis. In other words, the structures on the north and south of this axis are the mirror images.

The temple complex consists of three rectangular-shaped concentric enclosures. Within these enclosures, there are three levels of structures. The middle enclosure on the first level supports the second level structures, and the inner enclosure supports the second and third level structures. In other words, the temple complex was built like a three-level pyramid.

A view of the Angkor Wat temple at sunrise
Angkor Wat at sunrise

Following the Hindu temple tradition of having a prakara at the outer limits, a rectangular structure surrounds the outer enclosure. This structure has galleries along the cardinal directions with small towers called pavilions built at the four corners. In the middle of the west and east galleries are the entrances. Carved into the walls of the galleries are the bas-reliefs depicting stories and scenes mainly from the Hindu epics such as Ramayana and Mahabharata. Check the Angkor Wat Bas-Reliefs page for a detailed descriptions of these bas-reliefs.

A courtyard separates the outer and middle enclosures. On this courtyard, there are two libraries near the west entrance; one on the north and another on the south. A structure known as the Cruciform Cloister connects the west entrance to the middle enclosure. This structure also connects the first level to the second level.

The second and third level also have galleries at the boundaries. At each corner of the second level, there is a small tower connecting the galleries on both sides.

At each corner of the third level, there is a large tower connecting the galleries on both sides. At the middle of the third level is a tall tower which can be seen from all sides. There are four rectangular basins between the middle tower and the four corner towers.

Entrance to the temple complex

Entrance to the Angkor Wat temple
Entrance to the Angkor Wat Temple

Galleries

A view of the Angkor Wat temple from southwest corner showing the west and south galleries
A view of the Angkor Wat Temple from southwest corner showing the west and south galleries

The rectangular gallery structures built on the periphery of the outer enclosure form the prakara of the temple. Note: A prakara in Hindu temple architecture is a protective wall or structure built around the outer perimeter of the temple.

There are four galleries, one in each cardinal direction. At each corner of the gallery-structure is a tower-like structure called pavilion. The image shows a view of the temple from the southwest corner showing the of the west and south galleries and the pavilion where they meet.

The images below show the corridors of the galleries whose inner walls are carved with bas-reliefs depicting various themes from Hindu mythology. The roof is beautifully decorated with rosettes of lotus flowers. Supporting the outer side of the gallery are the square pillars.

Exquisite bas-reliefs

Intricately carved bas-reliefs adorning the gallery walls are one of the main attractions of this temple. The bas-reliefs are divided into eight sections with each gallery having two sections, each of which was carved continuously in the horizontal direction depicting multiple scenes of a theme. Some panels have two or three tiers in the vertical direction. Some part of the bas-reliefs have polished appearance and some still have traces of original paint, especially red.

Check Angkor Wat Bas-Reliefs for a detailed description of bas-reliefs on the lower-level galleries.

Libraries – Mysterious structures

Many Khmer temples, including the stunningly beautiful Banteay Srei, have libraries near the entrance. Built like mini shrines, the libraries are the unique elements of the Khmer temple architecture. Although their exact purpose is still a mystery, the likely intention was to use them as repositories of manuscripts.

It is worth noting that there is no concept of libraries in the Hindu temples in India. The Hindu religious texts, which include two epics and 18 Puranas, are large and numerous. The manuscripts of these texts were likely brought from India and were considered precious and sacred. The libraries were likely built to preserve them in a safe place and were designed like shrines to allow people to worship them. However, there is no evidence that the libraries were ever used as repositories of manuscripts.

The temple complex has two identical libraries, one in the south and the other in the north, located at the same distance from the east-west axis. They are near the west side entrance and south and north of the cruciform cloister.

The image on the right shows the library on the south side. The image on the left shows courtyard of the lower terrace, library, and gallery on the south side of the temple. To the north of the library is a structure called the cruciform cloister, a term used by architects to describe these types of structures.

Cruciform Cloister – An excellent example of symmetrical design

A Cruciform Cloister basin
A cruciform cloister basin

The term cruciform cloister is used in architecture to describe a cross-like covered structure. The underlying design-principle was used in the Angkor Wat architecture in two locations, one in the lower level and another in the top-most level. The cruciform cloister on the lower level is situated near the entrance on the west side, and it was built to connect the outer enclosure to the middle enclosure of the temple.

The cruciform cloister structure has two perpendicular axial galleries that intersect in the middle to form a cross and four boundary galleries that surround the cross to form a square. The shape of the structure thus looks like a cross surrounded by a square.

Each axial gallery connects to a boundary gallery in the middle. Thus, the resulting structure has four equal-sized quadrants, each of which is enclosed by half of the boundary and half of the axial galleries. As you can see from the image, each quadrant looks like a basin.

The cruciform cloister structure described above is an example of a perfectly symmetrical design. It is symmetrical about the east-west axis as well as the north-south axis.

As you can see from the image, the floor of the basin is paved and has steps to reach it. The construction appears water-tight. So, in all likelihood, it was a temple-tank (kunda or phuskarini), a common feature in Hindu temples. Experts believe that all four basins were filled with water when the temple was in use.

The gallery on the right side (i.e., south side ) of the cruciform cloister is also called Preah Poan (thousand Buddhas) because of thousands of Buddha statues left inside this structure by pilgrims, most of whom came from the neighboring regions and Japan. They erected Buddha statues made of metal, stone, and wood as votive offerings. While the majority of them are lost, some can still be found here, and some are in the storage.

The gallery on the left side is called the Hall of Echoes. Here you hear the echoes of the sound you make at the end of the gallery. This is a common feature in many temples and monuments in India.

The image shows the axial gallery along the east-west direction. As you can see, it has steps at the end leading to the middle terrace.

Middle terrace

The middle terrace also has galleries at the perimeter of the rectangular enclosure. Galleries are connected to relatively small gopuras at the end.  As you can see from the image on the left, a well-paved corridor is between the uppermost terrace enclosure and the middle terrace galleries. The gallery on the left side of the image ends into a small corner gopura (tower). To the right of the corner gopura is a door to the gallery. The top-level structures are on the right.

The doorways of the galleries and gopuras are beautifully decorated, and always have pediments typically carved with scenes from the Hindu epics Ramayana and Mahabharata.

The image on the right shows a doorway to the middle-level gallery. The lintel (which is just above the door) depicts Indra wielding his weapon Vajrayuda with his right hand while riding his vahana (vehicle) Airavata, a three-headed elephant.

The bas-relief on the pediment (which is above the lintel) depicts a scene based on an episode from Ramayana in which Vali, the Monkey King of Kishkindha, lay dying while his courtiers are mourning and the gods above are watching.

Death of Vali – A poignant episode from Ramayana

According to the story, Sugriva, who is Vali’s younger brother, secretly desires Vali’s throne. When Rama approaches Sugriva seeking his help to find his kidnapped wife Sita, Sugriva sees an opportunity to fulfill his desire. As a condition to look for Rama’s wife, Sugriva asks Rama to help topple Vali. Rama agrees to this condition and forms an alliance with Sugriva. Rama and Sugriva devise a plan to defeat Vali. According to this plan, Sugriva invites Vali for a duel, and during the fight, Rama, who is waiting on the sidelines, kills Vali with an arrow.

The Banteay Srei Temple has a beautifully carved bas-relief that illustrates the Vali-Sugriva fight.

Enchanting apsaras

The middle level of the Angkor Wat is less ornate than the lower level. However, the walls and pillars of the galleries are carved with beautiful bas-reliefs of apsaras and devatas. The images show two such reliefs.

The images show apsaras carved in the middle level. As you can see, they are standing gracefully, each with different postures. They are wearing elegant skirts and beautiful jewelry, including necklaces, armlets, bracelets, and anklets. The dangling earrings reach up to their shoulders, and they look like the flowers of the Kror Sang tree. On their head are the intricately carved three-tipped headdresses (except one on the image on the right). The jewelry and costumes in the carvings showcase the richness of the Khmer culture and reflective of how people used to live in the Khmer era.

Note: There is no equivalent English translation for the Sanskrit word apsara. The closest translation is celestial maiden or nymph. In Indian mythology, apsaras are youthful eternal beauties. According to one myth, they are accomplices of gandharvas, who are celestial musicians. Through their singing and dancing, apsaras entertain the gods. Apsaras are one of the by-products of the Samudra Manthana, which was a collaborative effort by devas (demigods) and asuras (demons) to produce amrita, the nectar of immortality. The victorious devas took them to the court of their king, Indra (i.e., heaven). For more details on the Samudra Manthana, check: Angkor Wat Bas-Reliefs.

Inspired by the beauty and elegance of the apsara carvings in the Khmer temples, especially in the Angkor Wat, apsaras make up a significant part of cultural dances (ballets) in Cambodia. They wear similar types of jewelry and costumes, including the majestic headdress’, that appear in the bas-reliefs.

Uppermost terrace

Known as the Bakan, the uppermost terrace is the principal sanctuary of the temple. The access to the Bakan was restricted to the king and high priests. The Bakan symbolizes Mount Meru, which in Hindu mythology is a mythological mountain with five peaks at the center of the Universe and is home to gods and demigods (devas). Mount Meru also appears in Buddhist and Jain texts.

Bakan structure

The uppermost terrace has four equally-sized towers rising from the corners and a taller and bigger tower in the middle. In architectural terms, this forms a quincunx, a geometrical pattern formed by five elements, four of which are placed at the corners and one placed at the center of a square. All the towers have the same conical shape, which symbolizes the bud of a lotus flower sacred in India and Southeast Asia.

From a distance, the towers of Angkor Wat appear similar in shape to the towers of the temples in Prambanan, which were built a few centuries earlier on the island of Java. This goes to show that the Khmer architecture was influenced by the architectures of temples in the neighboring regions rather than India.

Corner towers

The four corner towers are identical in shape and size. Each has two access doorways with steps from the middle terrace corridor.  The images below show the views of the corner towers as seen from the middle terrace corridor.

Corner towers of Angkor Wat

The image shows the door of one of the corner towers on the uppermost terrace. The door frame is beautifully decorated. The pediment shows a scene from the Battle of Kurukshetra.

Cruciform Cloister

A basin on the uppermost terrace on the uppermost terrace of the Angkor Wat temple in Siem Reap, Cambodia.
A basin on the uppermost terrace on the uppermost terrace of the Angkor Wat temple in Siem Reap, Cambodia.

At the boundaries of the Bakan are the four galleries, each connecting to a corner tower at both ends. An axial gallery in each cardinal direction perpendicular to the boundary gallery connects that boundary gallery to the central tower. The four boundary galleries and four axial galleries form a cruciform cloister structure, just like the one in the lower level.

The image shows a boundary gallery connected the axial gallery and one of four basins formed by this arrangement.

Entrances to the Bakan

At the middle of each boundary gallery on the outer side is a porch that was used as an entrance. When the temple was built, the Bakan had all the four entrances open. Once the temple became a Buddhist monument, three of the entrances were closed and statues of Buddha were installed on the vestibule.

The image on the left shows the outer view of one of the porches of the entrance as seen from the uppermost terrace itself. On the left, it shows a section of the outer wall of the north gallery ending into an entrance. Also seen on the right are the middle terrace corridor and the north library on the lower level courtyard.

The image on the right is a view from the middle corridor of the steps to the same entrance shown in the above image. As you can see, the steps to enter the Bakan from the middle terrace are steep.

Galleries

Surrounding the uppermost terrace are the galleries. The image on the left shows an inside view of the gallery. Although not as ornate as the middle terrace, some of the walls and pillars have carvings of apsaras .

The left image shows a pillar with intricate and detailed carving of two smiling apsaras with perfect anatomy standing elegantly with the flowers in their hands. As you can see, they are wearing exquisite jewelry on their necks, hands, legs, ears, and around the waists. The dangling earrings reach up to their shoulders, and they look like the flowers of the Kror Sang tree. Adorning their heads are intricately carved three-tipped mukutas (headdresses). Both the apsaras are wearing different but elegant dresses decorated with beautiful flowery patterns.

Buddha statues

The Bakan has many Buddha statues, which were installed after the Angkor Wat temple was converted to a Buddhist monument.

The rightmost image shows the Buddha statue seated on a seven-headed serpent (naga) placed on the eastern gallery. Buddha is in a mediating state indicated by his hand gesture (mudra). This statue is an interesting combination of Hinduism and Buddhism. The seven-headed serpent on whom Buddha is seated is the king of nagas known as Seshanaga (a.k.a Adishesha) whom Vishnu often uses as a bed. The sculpture confirms the belief that Buddha is one of the avatars (manifestations) of Vishnu.

Central tower

Center tower on the uppermost terrace of the Angkor Wat temple
Center tower on the uppermost terrace of the Angkor Wat temple

The image shows a view of the central tower as seen from the uppermost terrace (i.e., Bakan). This imposing structure is exactly in the middle of the uppermost terrace. The height of the tower is 700 feet from the ground.

Experts believe that King Suryavarman II was buried under this tower. However, excavations under this tower and elsewhere have not discovered a body or significant funerary objects, except for a rectangular stone object, possibly a part of the sarcophagus, and some objects that might have helped a body to be placed in a fetal position. If the grave existed, it was most likely plundered or moved to another location when the temple was converted into a Buddhist monument.

Related Pages

Angkor Wat Bas-Reliefs, Angkor Thom, Bayon, Ta Prohm, Banteay Srei
Phnom Kulen, Tonlé Sap, Cambodia
Bali, Prambanan, Prambanan Bas-Reliefs, Borobudur, Indonesia

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Borobudur

Located about 30 miles northwest of Yogyakarta, Borobudur is the largest and one of the most beautiful Buddhist monuments in the world. This magnificent structure was built between 778 and 850 CE by the rulers of the Shylendra (Cailendra) dynasty, who were the followers of Mahāyāna Buddhism. According to an inscription, King Samaratungga of this dynasty commissioned this monument.

The Borobudur monument was buried under volcanic ash around 1000 CE and lay hidden for many centuries until it was discovered by the British in 1815. The Dutch, who were the colonial masters at that time, excavated and restored it in 1907 and 1911. Later, Indonesia continued the restoration and completed it in 1983.

Borobudur is now a UNESCO World Heritage site. Although Hinduism and Buddhism did not originate in Indonesia, Indonesians are proud of their heritage and the monuments. They have done an excellent job of restoring and maintaining these archaeological sites.

Borobudur Structure

Unlike the other Buddhist structures in the world, Borobudur is unique in that its structure looks like a step pyramid and the size comparable to Giza Pyramids in Egypt. The image below is a drawing showing the half cross-section of the monument.

Layers the Borobudur Temple
Details of Borobudur Temple layers

The Borobudur monument is about Buddhist philosophy and Gauthama Buddha’s birth, life, death, and enlightenment. According to Buddhist philosophy, human beings need to go through three realms to attain enlightenment. These are:

  • Kāmadhātu: The word kāma in Sanskrit roughly translates to desire or lust. This is the actual physical realm of humans and animals who have desire and lust. This realm is equivalent to the Bhuloka in Hinduism.
  • Rūpadhātu: The word rūpa in Sanskrit refers to form or shape. This is the realm of ascetics and lesser gods who have controlled their worldly desires but still remain human. This realm is equivalent to Bhuvaloka in Hinduism.
  • Arūpadhātu: The word arūpa in Sanskrit refers to formlessness. This realm is an abstract level of consciousness. The holiest of the holy reside in this realm and have no physical form. People who attain enlightenment live in this realm. This realm is equivalent to Svarloka/Svargaloka in Hinduism.

Built like a pyramid, the structure of Borobudur has three distinct layers to reflect the concept behind the three realms mentioned above. The top layer with three round terraces represents Arūpadhātu. The middle layer, the biggest with five terraces, represents Rūpadhātu. The lowest layer, which is the courtyard, represents Kāmadhātu.

Exterior of the Borobudur Temple

Arūpadhātu Layer

Representing Arūpadhātu is the top layer of the temple consisting of three circular terraces, each of which has numerous bell-shaped stupas and statues of Buddha.

Situated in the middle of the topmost terrace is a large bell-shaped stupa, known as the mother stupa, with a pinnacle on top. In the original structure, this pinnacle supported a giant umbrella, which was destroyed later by lightning. Experts believe that a golden statue of Buddha was inside this stupa but was stolen in the 1800s.

The topmost terrace has 16 stupas, the second terrace from the top has 24 stupas, and the third has 32 stupas. Placed inside each stupa is a statue of Buddha, known as Dhyani Buddha Vajrasattva, with the Dharmachakra Mudra (hand gesture), a symbol for the wheel of Dharma.

Top three terraces of Borobudur

Sunrise

At dawn, the top terraces provide a spectacular view of the temple and lush green mountainous terrain surrounding Borobudur. A large number of visitors climb this monument early morning to view the sunrise from the top terraces.

Sunrise at Borobudur

Rūpadhātu Layer

The Rūpadhātu layer, which represents the Rūpadhātu realm, is the body of the temple and is the middle layer consisting of five square terraces, each with four corridors. Carved into the walls – both inner and balustrade – of these corridors are the narrative bas-reliefs depicting the stories related to Buddhism. Placed inside the niches above the walls are the beautifully carved Dyani Buddha statues.

Corridors of the Rūpadhātu  terraces

Dhyani Buddha Statues

There are 432 Dhyani Buddha (Meditating Buddha) statues in the Rūpadhātu layer. Although these statues may look alike, they have different hand gestures called mudras. In Buddhism, there are five standard mudras. 

A Dhyani Buddha statue with a particular mudra has a name and meaning. All the Buddha statues pointing to a cardinal direction (i.e., one of north, east, south, west) have the same mudras. Here is a list of the five mudras and the name of the corresponding Buddha.

Bhumisparsha Mudra

A Dhyani Buddha statue with the Bhumisparshamudra gesture
A Dhyani Buddha statue with the Bhumisparshamudra gesture

Bhumisparsha in Sanskrit means touching the earth. In this gesture, all the five fingers of the right-hand point to the ground. This mudra refers to Buddha calling the earth as the witness. The Buddha with this pose is called Asokabhya. All the Buddha statues in the east direction have this mudra.

Dhyana Mudra

A Dhyani Buddha statue with the Dhyanamudra gesture
A Dhyani Buddha statue with the Dhyanamudra gesture

This gesture is performed by placing the upward-facing right palm on top of the upward-facing left palm. This mudra represents silence or meditation. The Buddha with this pose is called Amitabha. All the Buddha statues in the west direction have this mudra.

Abhaya Mudra

A Dhyani Buddha statue with the Dhyanamudra gesture
A Dhyani Buddha statue with the Dhyanamudra gesture

In this gesture, the right hand is held upright with the palm facing outwards. This mudra represents fearlessness and reassurance. The Buddha in this pose is called Amoghasidha, and the statues in the north direction have this mudra.

Vara Mudra

A Dhyani Buddha statue with the Varamudra gesture
A Dhyani Buddha statue with the Varamudra gesture

In this gesture,  the right-hand palm is open upwards with the fingers slightly pointing downwards. This mudra represents charity and compassion. The Buddha with this pose is called Ratnasambhava. The statues in the south direction have this mudra.

Vitāraka Mudra

Buddha with the Vitaraka Mudra Gesture - Bas-relief on the Rupadatu layer in Borobudur, Indinesia
Buddha with the Vitaraka Mudra Gesture

In this gesture, the right hand is upright with its palm facing outwards, and in this hand, the thumb and index finger touch to form a circle while the other three fingers point upwards.

This mudra represents teaching and debate. This Buddha with this pose is called Vairochana. The statues in the center have this mudra.

Story Panels

The story panels cover both the inner and balustrade walls of the corridors of the five Rūpadhātu layer terraces. Carved into these panels are the narrative bas-reliefs depicting the scenes from ancient Buddhist texts.

The type of stories covered in the Rūpadhātu layer are:
Gandavyūha: Stories of Sudhana, a boy from India, moving from teacher to teacher in search of wisdom and enlightenment.
Avadāna: Similar stories as Jātaka, but people are not bodhisattvas
Lalitavistāra: Life of Buddha in Tushita Heaven
Jātaka: Stories of Buddha in his previous lives

To get the location of the story panels, check the diagram in the earlier section detailing the contents of the three layers of Borobudur.

Gandavyūha Story

The Gandavyūha story panels cover the top three of the five terraces of the Rūpadhātu layer. The scenes in the Gandavyūha story panels are based on Gandavyūha Sūtra, an ancient Buddhist text that chronicles the journey of Sudhana – a son of a wealthy merchant – in his quest for wisdom and enlightenment. In his epic journey, he meets a total of 52 teachers from all walks of life, including a king, queen, slave, and even a prostitute. 

The last three teachers Sudhana meets before attaining enlightenment are MaitreyaManjushri, and Samantabhadra, who are Mahāsattvas (great bodhisattvas).  

Here are some of the interesting Gandavyūha bas-reliefs carved on the top three terraces of the Rūpadhātu layer:

Sudhana meets A Teacher

Gandavyūha Story - Bas-relief depicting Sudhana listening to a teacher carved on the Rūpadhātu layer of Borobudur in Yogyakarta, Indonesia
Sudhana learning from a teacher

This beautifully carved bas-relief depicts Sudhana learning from one of his teachers. As you can see from the image, the teacher is seated on a highly ornate throne, implying that he is a high-ranking person. The hand gesture (Vitāraka Mudra) made by the teacher indicates that he is delivering a sermon or engaged in a debate. 

Sudhana is seated in front of him with folded hands (namaste gesture), and behind him are the other disciples or courtiers engaged in debate. The discourse appears to occur in a beautiful setting with Sudhana and other disciples sitting under the two big trees with birds flying above.

Sudhana meets Maitreya

Gandavyūha Story - Maitreya revealing Realms of Dharma to Sudhana
Sudhana meets Maitreya, the future Buddha

The bas-relief shown in the image depicts Maitreya, the ante-penultimate (third from last) teacher of Sudhana. Maitreya is the Buddha of the future, whose current abode is the Tushita Heaven and is accessible only through meditation. When Sudhana accesses Maitreya through meditation, he takes him to his wondrous tower and reveals the Dharmadhatus (realms of dharma).

As you can see from the image, Maitreya is seated on a highly ornate throne with the Dhyana Mudra gesture, implying that he is meditating. To his left is Sudhana, kneeling and bowing his head with hands on his knees. 

This bas-relief is carved on the west-facing inner wall of the third terrace.

Samantabhadra

Samantabhadra Bodhisattva bas-relief in the Rūpadhātu layer of Borbudur in Yogyakarta, Indonesia
Samantabhadra Bodhisattva

Seated gracefully on a lotus throne is Samantabhadra, one of the eight Mahāsattvas (great bodhisattvas) of the Mahāyāna Buddhism. Bodhisattva Samantabhadra is the final teacher Sudhana meets before he attains enlightenment.

This bas-relief is on the balustrade wall of the fourth Rūpadhātu terrace. As you can see, his body is covered with beautiful jewelry, including necklaces, armlets, bracelets, and udiyana (waist chain). Hanging from the left shoulder to the right side of his waist is a looped thread, known as yajnopavita. Adorning his head is an intricately-carved three-stage mukuta (crown).

His facial expression is calm and serene. With his left hand gently resting on his leg, he is making a gesture known as the Karana Mudra with his right hand. In Sanskrit, mudra refers to a hand gesture. The Karana Mudra is performed by pointing the index and little fingers upwards and ring finger downwards, and curving the middle finger in such way that it touches the thumb. This mudra symbolizes positive energy and is performed to eliminate the negative energy around us. It is believed that Karana Mudra wards-off evil.

Gandavyūha Story - Bas-relief depicting Bodhisattva Samantabhadra delivering a sermon carved in the Rūpadhātu layer of Borobudur
Samantabhadra Discourse

The image shows another bas-relief depicting Samantabhadra seated majestically on a throne at the center. It appears as though he is engaged in a discourse with his disciples seated to his left and right. This bas-relief is on the balustrade wall of the third Rūpadhātu terrace.

Avadāna Tales

In Sanskrit, avadāna means great act or achievement. Avadānas refer to the ancient texts that narrate short stories about the heroic deeds of the people in their previous lives and the role of Karma in their present lives. The heroic deeds include sacrifices, such as one’s life or wealth, for the good of others. The laws of Karma apply to one’s actions, i.e., the good deeds result in good outcomes, and evil deeds result in grave consequences.

The Buddhist teachers use the avadāna stories to teach morals to their followers. A typical story starts with a context, goes into the details of the deeds in one’s past life, and then their consequences in the present life. The story ends with a moral drawn from it. The Buddha himself narrated some of the stories in his sermons. The avadāna stories are somewhat similar to the parables in the Bible.

Peacock Story

A bas-relief depicting a majestic peacock riding a chariot carved in the Rupadhatu layer of Borbudur in Yogyakarta, Indonesia
A majestic peacock on a chariot

In this story, a peacock – actually a bodhisattva – became known for its beauty and voice, and Queen Anupama of Vāranasi coveted it. To get this peacock, she pleaded with her husband, King Brahmadatta, who sent people to capture it, with a warning that they would face the death penalty if they fail.

The peacock came to know about this story when the people tried to capture it. To prevent their deaths, the peacock submitted willingly to go with them to the palace. The bas-relief depicts this part of the story. As you can see, a lovely peacock is standing majestically inside a horse-driven chariot.

The story ends tragically with the death of the queen. When King Brahmadatta was away from the capital fighting a battle, Queen Anupama started an extra-marital affair. When she suspected that the peacock knew her infidelity, she poisoned the peacock, who, instead of dying, became more beautiful. The dejected queen then killed herself.

It is carved on the balustrade walls of the second terrace.

Distributing Food and Jewels

The bas-relief on the left is part of Avadāna story panels carved into the inner walls of the first terrace of the Rūpadhātu layer. It likely depicts the court of a king. As you can see, the king is seated on a throne on the right and is receiving offerings from a well-dressed lady. Behind her is a person carrying a box and walking away from the court. Standing at the center is an elegantly dressed young man – most likely a prince – handing over fruits to the people, some of whom are kneeling with their hands stretched to receive them.

The bas-relief on the right likely depicts the court of a queen, seated on a throne (on the right edge of the image), where she receives offerings from people. Standing at the center is an elegantly dressed young man – likely a prince or the king himself – delivering objects (food or jewels) to the people.

Lalitavistāra

The Lalitavistāra bas-reliefs depict stories from the Lalitavistāra Sūtra, which is a Mahāyāna Buddhist scripture that describes the legends of Gautama Buddha from his descent from the Tusita Heaven until his first sermon at the deer park in Vāranasi, India. Note: In Sanskrit, lalita means lucid or elegant, and vistāra means expanse.

The Lalitavistāra Sūtra is a multi-author text compiled together pieces of writings in Prakrit and Sanskrit written over a long period. Because of this, there are some overlapping of stories.

Bas-relief on the Rupadhatu layer depicting a scene from the life of Buddha
Shakyamuni leaving Kapilavastu

The bas-reliefs based on this text appear on the first terrace (from the bottom) of the Rūpadhātu layer. As you can see, the story panel has two registers. The top register depicts the story based on Lalitavistāra, and the bottom is an Avadāna story based on Divyavadāna. 

The bas-relief on the top register depicts Gautama Buddha leaving Kapilavastu, his native place, in search of the truth. After Gautama Buddha attains enlightenment, he was known as Shakyamuni because of his lineage. Note: In Sanskrit, shakya is the name of his clan, and muni means sage.

Jatāka Tales

The Jātaka tales, which date back to the 4th century BCE, are an important part of Buddhist literature where Buddha appears in different forms, including a king, elephant, and tortoise, in his current and previous lives. The bas-reliefs on the lower terraces of the Rūpadhātu layer depict stories from Jātaka Mala, a book written in Sanskrit by Arya Sura sometime in the 8th or 9th century describing 34 Jataka stories. The rock-caves of Ajantha in India also have Jataka stories painted on their ceilings.

Kāmadhātu Layer

A section of the Kamadhatu layer
A section of the Kamadhatu layer

The courtyard of the Borobudur represents the Kāmadhātu realm.

This layer has only one type of bas-relief, which is called Mahakarmawibhangga. The bas-reliefs in this layer depict general stories of human actions and their consequences. Even though there are 160 reliefs, only a few are open to the public.

Related Pages
Prambanan, Prambanan Bas-Reliefs, Bali, Indonesia
– Angkor Wat, Angkor Wat Bas-Reliefs, Banteay Srei, Cambodia

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