Alhambra: Medina

Explore the Bustling City of the Nasrids

Located on the eastern end of the Alhambra was a city bustling with shops, industrial houses, public baths, mosques, and residential quarters. Known as the Medina, this city served the daily needs of the palace and the people working there. Both nobility and the common people, including artisans and civil servants, lived in the residential quarters.

The main street of the city, known as Calle Real (Royal Street), ran from the east end of the Alhambra to the west side near Puerta del Vino (Wine Gate). A part of that trail still exists, and some sections have structures built during the Christian era.

Most of the original Nasrid structures in the Medina are now gone. The Christian kings who took over the Alhambra built structures over them. Later, Napoleon occupied the Alhambra from 1808 to 1812, and upon his defeat, his soldiers blasted many of these structures while retreating. 

What remains now are the foundations of original structures and some restored buildings. The ruins of the Medina are on the eastern part of the Alhambra

Here are some the monuments that existed along Calle Real:

Puerta del Vino (Wine Gate)

Built during the reign of Muhammed III (1302 โ€“ 1309), the third ruler of the Nasrid dynasty, the Puerta del Vino (Wine Gate) was a gateway inside the walls of the Alhambra and served as the entrance to the city. Although it is one of the oldest buildings in the Alhambra, it underwent minimal restoration. So, it still retains its original characteristics.

The Wine Gate has two similar facades, east facing, and west-facing. The decorations on these were updated during different periods. The image on the left shows the east-facing facade, i.e., facing the Carlos V Palace, and the image on the right shows the west facade, i.e., facing the Alcazaba.

As you can see from the images, the door has a horseshoe-shaped point arch. As with the other decorations in the Alhambra, mathematics played a vital role in creating beautiful art in decorating the Wine Gate facade. The design of this facade is symmetrical about the vertical axis. The beam above the arch has several parallelogram-shaped bricks placed at regular intervals and slanted outwards, creating an illusion that this funnel-shaped structure is holding the balcony above the east facade.

Both the facades have twin windows on the upper floor. The friezes of Islamic calligraphy surround these windows on the eastern one. The rectangular frames decorated with arabesques and Islamic calligraphy are on either side of these windows.

The middle brick in the beam above the arch on the west facade has the figure of a key engraved into it. It is an Islamic symbol whose meaning is not fully understood. It could mean that the key is a symbol of power that opens and closes the gates of heaven. The panel above the beam has an inscription in Arabic, and above it is a balcony with twin windows

Archaeological site of the Abencerrajes’ Palace

Archaeological site of the Abencerrajes Palace in the Alhambra, Granada, Spain
Archaeological site of the Abencerrajes Palace

The image shows the archaeological site of the Abencerrajes’ Palace located in the upper area of the Alhambra. Historians believe that a beautiful palace with the characteristics of Nasrid-era architecture and art once stood in this location.

As mentioned before, Napoleon was responsible for the destruction of buildings in this site. Upon his defeat in 1812, he ordered his retreating troops to blow up the palace, including the Torre de Abencerrajes (Abencerrajes’ Tower).

The site was abandoned after the destruction. However, this changed in the 1930s when the restoration of the Alhambra started. After the discovery of the Nasrid-era artifacts in this area, archaeologists took a keen interest in this site and started excavating different parts of the palace. The significant excavations took place in 1957, 1990, and 1991. The ruins you see now are the results of these excavations and some restoration.

Rooms of the Abencerrajes Palace
Rooms of the Abencerrajes’ Palace

Before the destruction, the palace was known as the Palacio de la Contadurรญa (Accounting Palace) because the Christian kings gave this area to the senior accountant of the Royal Council in 1501.

The Abencerrajes’ Palace was attached to the Alhambra wall on the south side and had multiple rooms on the eastern section. A courtyard with a pool existed next to these rooms and parallel to the wall. Calle Real, the main road of the Medina, ran in front of the palace.

Torre de los Abencerrajes (Abencerrajes’ Tower)

Ruins of the Abencerrajes Tower in the Alhambra, Granada, Spain
Ruins of the Abencerrajes Tower

The image shows the ruins of the Abencerrajes’ Tower.

As mentioned before, Napoleon was responsible for the destruction of this tower. The ruins you see are what remained after this destruction.

The tower is on the thick defensive wall that surrounds the Alhambra. As you can see from the image, there are steps to the adarve (the path on the flat top of the wall), which connects it to other towers on the wall.

Puerta de los Siete Suelos – Door of the Seven Floors Tower

Puerta de los Siete Suelos - Door of the Seven Floors Tower -
Puerta de los Siete Suelos – Door of the Seven Floors Tower

Just like the Puerta de la Justicia, this used to be an external entrance to the Alhambra in the Nasrid period. However, the original gate was also destroyed by the retreating Napoleonโ€™s troops in 1812. The structure shown in the image is the restored gate based on the pictures drawn by people, including Washington Irving. It is built on the south side of the wall that surrounds the Alhambra and is located east of the ruins of the Abencerrajes’ Palace.

The gate got its name because of the belief that it had seven floors below the ground. However, the excavation of this site led to the discovery of only two underground floors.

The gate also has an interesting legend associated with it. According to this legend, Boabdil, the last Nasrid ruler of Granada, left the Alhambra through this gate after his surrender to the Christian kings. Before surrendering, he made a deal with the Christian kings to close the gate forever.

Parador de San Francisco – A Former Nasrid Palace and Franciscan Monastery

Parador de San Francisco - A Former Nasrid Palace and Franciscan Monastery in the Alhambra, Granada, Spain
Parador de San Francisco – Convent of San Francisco

Located near the eastern end of the Alhambra, this building used to be part of a Nasrid palace built in the 14th century. After the Christian kings took over the Alhambra, it was converted sometime in the 16th century into a Franciscan convent to fulfill a promise Queen Isabella made to build a shrine for St. Francis of Assisi, the founder of the Franciscan Orders. In the ensuing years, many Christian kings were interred in the chapel of the monastery.

After a considerable remodeling of the interiors, it was converted into a Parador, a luxury hotel run by the Government of Spain. The architecture and decoration of its interiors are now a mixture of Nasrid, Christian, and modern styles. The hotel is also called the Parador de Granada.

Related Pages
– Alhambra – Discover the magic of Alhambra
– Palacios Nazarรญes – Nasrid Palaces – A Shining Example of Moorish Art and Architecture
– Los Jardines del Partal – The Gardens of the Partal
– Alcazaba – A Formidable Fortress of the Nasrids
– Medina, the Bustling City of the Nasrids
– Alhambra – Christian-Era Monuments
– Alhambra – Outer Monuments
– Generalife – Heavenly Gardens of the Nasrids
– Real Alcรกzar of Seville: Pedro I Palace – A masterpiece of Mudรฉjar art and architecture

Copyright ยฉ 2020 – 2023 by YatrikaOne. All rights reserved.

Alhambra: Christian-Era Monuments

Carlos V Pillar

The image shows a beautifully decorated wall located next to the Puerta de la Justicia and below the artillery pieces in front of the Palacio Carlos V. You can see this on your way to the Alhambra.

Carlos V Pillar
Carlos V Pillar

As you can see, the wall has three distinct levels of carvings. The bottom level is about Granada. The middle and top levels are about Carlos V, Holy Roman Emperor, who commissioned the building of this wall.

Carved at the bottom level are the three masks, which, according to experts, represent the three rivers of Granada, Darro, Beiro, and Genil. Representing Granada is a pomegranate growing on a tree branch carved on each of the two pilasters in the middle. Note that Granada means pomegranate in Spanish.

At the center of the middle level is an inscription in Latin describing Carlos V. The semi-circular block on the top level has his coat of arms enclosed by a double-headed eagle, which represents the Hapsburg Empire. The four medallions carved on sides of this circular block have reliefs depicting scenes from Greek mythology.

Palacio Carlos V (Charles V Palace)

The south facade of Palacio Carlos V (Charles V Palace) in the Alhambra, Granada, Spain
Palacio Carlos V (Charles V Palace) – South Facade

The Palacio Carlos V is one of the large buildings you see as you enter the Alhambra site. It is a square-shaped building with a circular court in the middle. The facades on the southern and western sides are ornate and have beautifully designed entrances. The northern and eastern walls are mostly unadorned because part of them are connected to the buildings of the Nasrid era. The image shows the south side facade.

Built in the 1500s, this Renaissance building was intended to be a summer palace for Carlos V (Charles V), Holy Roman Emperor, who was an ardent admirer of the Alhambra and wanted to be part of it, although he never got to live in it. He entrusted the job of building the palace to Pedro Machuca, a renowned architect of his time, who also remodeled and renovated part of the Nasrid Palaces. He was a brilliant architect well ahead of his time, and some of the concepts and designs he used became popular later, including the circular court at the center of the building.

Read More: Palacios Nazarรญes โ€“ Nasrid Palaces โ€“ A Shining Example of Moorish Art and Architecture

Palacio Carlos V (Charles V Palace) located in the Alhambra, Granada, Spain
Palacio Carlos V – Charles V Palace

Although the construction of this palace began in 1527, it was not completed for many reasons, including financial and political, and fell into disrepair because of long neglect. Even the roof of the partially built structure came off, and the palace remained roofless for a long time. It underwent a major renovation, which included adding a new roof, and was eventually completed in 1957. The building now houses the Museo de Bellas Artes, a museum of fine arts.

The image shows a view of the palace as seen from the Torre del Cubo of Alcazaba. It shows the west-facing facade and northern wall connected to the Nasrid Palaces. The white-painted structure abutting the wall is the southern gallery of the Court of the Myrtles.

Palacio Carlos V (Charles V Palace) - Circular Court at the Center
Palacio Carlos V (Charles V Palace) – Circular Court at the Center

As you can see from the image, many people are standing in line in front of the palace. They are the visitors waiting to enter the Nasrid Palaces. The entrance is along the northern wall of the Charles V Palace.

Iglesia de Santa Marรญa de la Alhambra – Church of St. Mary of the Alhambra

Iglesia de Santa Marรญa de la Alhambra (Church of Santa Maria of Alhambra) - A view from the Partal
Church of Santa Maria – A view from the Gardens of the Partal

The image shows a view of the Iglesia de Santa Marรญa de la Alhambra (Church of St. Mary of the Alhambra) as seen from the Gardens of the Partal.

Located next to the Palacio Carlos V on the the Alhambra alta (i.e., upper area), the Church of Santa Maria is an iconic landmark of the Alhambra of the Christian era.

Note: To find its location, look for Area B in the map of the Alhambra. You can also see its location with respect to the other buildings in the external view of the Alhambra.

A grand mosque built by the Nasrids in the 1300s existed in this site. Sultans used this mosque for daily prayer, and because of that, it was a place of many palace intrigues. It is believed that Yusuf I, the seventh Nasrid king, was assassinated in this mosque.

Just after the Catholic monarchs took over the Alhambra, the grand mosque was converted into a Christian chapel. Many years later, it was decided to demolish the building and build a grand church in its place. The building of the church began in 1581 with Juan de Herrera being the architect. Because of the cost, his design was simplified by Ambrosio De Vico, who completed it in 1618.

Related Pages
Alhambra:
โ€“ Alhambra โ€“ Discover the magic of the Alhambra
โ€“ Palacios Nazarรญes โ€“ Nasrid Palaces โ€“ A Shining Example of Moorish Art and Architecture
โ€“ Los Jardines del Partal โ€“ The Gardens of the Partal
โ€“ Alcazaba โ€“ A Formidable Fortress of the Nasrids
โ€“ Medina, the Bustling City of the Nasrids
โ€“ Alhambra โ€“ Christian-Era Monuments
โ€“ Alhambra โ€“ Outer Monuments
Generalife:
โ€“ Heavenly Gardens of the Nasrids
Real Alcรกzar of Seville:
โ€“ Pedro I Palace โ€“ A masterpiece of Mudรฉjar art and architecture

Copyright ยฉ 2020 โ€“ 2023 by YatrikaOne. All rights reserved.

Alhambra: Outer Monuments

Pedestrian Path to the Alhambra Entrance

A site map of the Alhambra located near the city of Granada in Spain
A site map of the Alhambra and Generalife

The Alhambra monuments are on top of Sabika Hill, and there are two pedestrian paths to the main entrance from the foot of this hill. The path explained here is via the Puerta de Las Granadas (Gate of the Pomegranates). If you are walking there from the city center, take Cuesta de Gomรฉrez Street from Plaza Nueva to arrive at this gate.

Note that another entry point is via Cuesta del Rey Chico, but the entry via the Puerta de Las Granadas is more interesting because of the monuments along this path. The distance from Plaza Nueva to the Alhambra monuments via this gate is about 3/4 of a mile.

The image shows a site map of the Alhambra and Generalife placed near this gate.

The paved road from the gate to the main entrance goes uphill, and as you walk up, you encounter the Alhambra forest on both sides. After walking a few hundred feet from the gate, the roads fork into two; The right path goes to the Crimson Towers, the Manuel de Falla Auditorium, and the left path leads to the Alhambra. As you walk further, you arrive at the Washington Irving monument. A few feet from there, you climb the flight of steps to reach the Pillar of Carlos V. Then you go via the Puerta de la Justicia (Gate of Justice) to arrive at the Alhambra.

Once you are at the top, you can see monuments belonging to both the Nasrid and Christian eras. The Nasrid era monuments include Puerta del Vino (Wine Gate), Alcazaba, and Palacios Nazarรญes (Nasrid Palaces). The Christian era monuments include Palacio de Carlos V (Charles V Palace) Santa Maria de Alhambra and Church of St. Mary of the Alhambra.

Monuments along the Pedestrian Path

As mentioned before, there are several interesting monuments along the pedestrian path to the Alhambra entrance. Here is a brief description of these monuments.

Puerta de Las Granadas (Gate of the Pomegranates)

The first monument you see is the Gate of the Pomegranates, and as mentioned, it is an entry point located at the foot of Sabika Hill. It is a Roman-style arched gate built in 1526 to commemorate the visit of Carlos V (1500 โ€“ 1558), Holy Roman Emperor, and also King of Spain, Germany, and Italy. The architect of this gate is Pedro Machuca, who also built the Palacio Carlos V (Charles V Palace), one of the famous Christian-era buildings at the Alhambra.

As you can see from the image, the door has a lintel and pediment. Situated above the lintel is a sculpture of a two-headed eagle covering the coat of arms of Carlos V, and on top of the pediment are the sculptures of three opened pomegranates, the reason why the gate got its name. This gate replaced the one existed from the Nasrid era, some remnants of which are visible on the right side, i.e., a small arch.

The image on the right side shows the back facade of this gate. Embedded on the wall on the left side is a small tombstone etched with words that pays touching tribute to Alhamar, the founder of the Alhambra. It was installed in 1932 as part of the ceremonies commemorating the 7th centenary of the founding of the Emirate of Granada. The author of these beautiful poetic words is Francisco Villaespesa Martรญn (1877 โ€“ 1936), a famous Spanish poet and writer with close ties to Granada.

Tombstone that pays tributes to Alahmar, the founder of the Alhambra mouted on a wall near the Gate of the Pomegranates in Granada, Spain
Tombstone that pays tributes to Alahmar and glorifies the Alhambra

Here is a rough English translation of these poetic words written on the plaque:
โ€œTo Alahmar, the most distinguished man of the house of NASAR, the founder of the Alhambra. Because you surpassed the limits of Time and space by making all the beauties of nature pale when by creating the wonders of this citadel to gird the glory and immortality of the divine temples of the distinguished and unique city, you receive the moving tribute from Granada and with it the admiration and respect of the world.

The cry of your banished children who, even in the solitude of the desert, in the light of the stars, dream of the paradise of your enchanted halls.

Do not fear the ravages of time or the fickleness of fortune, because your overflowing zeal was eternalized in the marvel of these enclosures.

Even though the shadows of these walls may not last, their memory, which will always be everlasting, will remain as the only possible refuge of dreams and art.

And then the last nightingale, who flutters over the world, will make its nest and sing chants of farewell amongst the glorious ruins of the Alhamabra.โ€

Statue of Washington Irving

The next important monument you see on the path is the bronze statue of Washington Irving (1783โ€“1859), a celebrated American author and a great admirer of the Alhambra.

Statue of of Washington Irving installed by the side of the pathway leading to the Alhambra in Granada, Spain
Statue of Washington Irving

He visited Granada in 1829 and lived on the premises of the Nasrid Palaces located inside the Alhambra. He authored one of his famous books, Tales of the Alhambra, which is a collection of essays, stories, and sketches related to the Alhambra, some of which were inspired by the legends and stories passed down through generations of families residing in Granada. Beside being an author, he was an American ambassador to Spain from 1842 to 1846.

This statue was installed in 2009 to commemorate Washington Irvingโ€™s 150th death anniversary. The plaque at the bottom says โ€œWashington Irving 1783 โ€“ 1859โ€ and the pedestal says โ€œHijo de la Alhambraโ€ (Son of the Alhambra) as he wanted to call himself. The Alhambra forest is behind the statue. The following is one of his famous quotes on the Alhambra:

 โ€œPerhaps there never was a monument more characteristic of an age and  people than the Alhambra; a rugged fortress without, a voluptuous palace  within; war frowning from its battlements; poetry breathing throughout  the fairy architecture of its halls.โ€

Carlos V Pillar

Carlos V Pillar
Carlos V Pillar

The image shows a beautifully decorated wall located next to the Puerta de la Justicia and below the artillery pieces in front of the Palacio Carlos. As you can see, the wall has three distinct levels of carvings. The bottom level is about Granada. The middle and top levels are about Carlos V, Holy Roman Emperor, who commissioned this wall.

Carved at the bottom level are the three masks, which, according to experts, represent the three rivers of Granada, Darro, Beiro, and Genil. Representing Granada is a pomegranate growing on a tree branch carved on each of the two pilasters in the middle. Note that Granada means pomegranate in Spanish.

At the center of the middle level is an inscription in Latin about Carlos V. The semi-circular block on the top level has his coat of arms enclosed by a double-headed eagle, which represents the Hapsburg Empire. The four medallions carved on sides of this circular block have reliefs depicting scenes from Greek mythology.

Puerta de la Justicia – Gate of Justice

Puerta de la Justicia (Gate of Justice)
Puerta de la Justicia (Gate of Justice)

Commissioned by Yusuf I (1333-1353), the seventh Nasrid ruler of the Emirate of Granada, and completed in 1348, the Gate of Justice is a tower built as an entrance to the Alhambra.

As you can see from the image, there are two doors, one behind the other. The outer door leads to the inner one, which is much smaller. Both of them have a horseshoe type of arches above the doors.

At the center of the circular frieze above the outer door is a marble figure of a hand inset into the frieze. The lintel of the inner door has an inscription written in Arabic. Above the inscription is a niche with the statue of the Virgin Mary with Infant Jesus, which is a duplicate of the original installed in 1501, which is currently on display at the Museo de Bellas Artes (Museum of Fine Arts) in the Palacio Carlos V โ€“ Charles V Palace.

Related Pages
Alhambra:
โ€“ Alhambra โ€“ Discover the magic of the Alhambra
โ€“ Palacios Nazarรญes โ€“ Nasrid Palaces โ€“ A Shining Example of Moorish Art and Architecture
โ€“ Los Jardines del Partal โ€“ The Gardens of the Partal
โ€“ Alcazaba โ€“ A Formidable Fortress of the Nasrids
โ€“ Medina, the Bustling City of the Nasrids
โ€“ Alhambra โ€“ Christian-Era Monuments
โ€“ Alhambra โ€“ Outer Monuments
Generalife:
โ€“ Heavenly Gardens of the Nasrids
Real Alcรกzar of Seville:
โ€“ Pedro I Palace โ€“ A masterpiece of Mudรฉjar art and architecture

Copyright ยฉ 2020 โ€“ 2023 by YatrikaOne. All rights reserved.

Generalife

Heavenly Gardens of the Nasrids

Located on Cerro del Sol (Sun Hill), a hill adjoining the Alhambra, the Generalife is a complex consisting of beautiful gardens, orchards, and a palace used by the Nasrid kings as a leisure residence, especially during summer. Derived from the Arabic word Jannat al-โ€˜Arฤซf, Generalife means an architect’s garden. Inspired by the Persian gardens of the medieval period, Muhammed II (1273 – 1302), the second king of the Nasrid dynasty, built the Generalife complex as his summer residence. Muhammed III (1302 – 1309), the second king, and Ismail I (1314- 1325), the fourth king, extended and improved the palaces and gardens.

The Generalife provides a panoramic view of the Alhambra and Granada area. Although the palaces in Generalife are not as ornate as the Nasrid Palaces of the Alhambra, they still retain the charm of Moorish art. The courtyards have pools with fountains and water canals.

The palaces and gardens underwent significant restorations in the 20th century. The walkways, which were built as part of these restorations, are paved with beautiful mosaics created with black and white pebbles. The black ones are from the River Genil, and the white ones are from the River Darro. It became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1984 along with the Alhambra and Albaicรญn district.

Visiting the Generalife

As mentioned before, the Generalife complex is on a hill next to the Alhambra, and separating them is a ravine, which has a bridge that provides access to the Generalife. It takes about an hour to visit the gardens and courtyards of the Generalife. You can combine the Alhambra visit with the Generalife because it is at a walkable distance.

There is a path that leads to the Generalife from the Alhambra. Once you visit the Nasrid Palaces, you come out via the Gardens of Partal, which has signs directing to the Paseo de las Torres (Tower’s walk). Follow these signs, and as you walk, you will see several Nasrid era towers. You then cross the bridge over the ravine and reach the Auditorium at the Generalife. A walkway leads to the lower gardens area, and you start the Generalife visit there.

Lower Gardens

A view of the gardens of the Generalife in Granada, Spain
A view of the lower gardens

The image shows an area known as the Lower Gardens the Generalife located on the slope of a hill next to the Alhambara in Granada, Spain. It is Area K in the map of the Alhambra and Generalife.

At the center of the image is a pebbled walkway that leads to the Generalife Palace and the upper gardens. The Generalife complex has many similar walkways paved with beautiful mosaics created with black and white pebbles. The black ones are from the River Genil, and the white ones are from the River Darro. The walkways are a 20th-century creation built as part of the restoration of the Generalife.

The area on the right side of the walkway is an arable land used by the Nasrids to grow vegetables and fruits. It serves the same purpose even today. As you can see, the agricultural terrace on the right has orchards and vegetable patches.

The area on the left side is used for decorative purposes and has beautifully-trimmed cypress trees. It is a delightful experience to walk under the arches of the cypress trees. See the image below. Although these gardens make a great impression with visitors, they are also a modern creation built as part of the renovation of the Generalife, and nobody is sure how they looked in the Nasrid era.

Generalife Palace

The walkway from the lower gardens leads to the Generalife Palace, which has two important courts, which are:

  1. Patio de la Acequia (Court of the Irrigation Channel
  2. Patio de la Sultana (Sultana’s Court or Courtyard of the Cypress).

Patio de la Acequia – Court of the Irrigation Canal

The Patio de la Acequia is a rectangular court with pavilions on all four sides. The image below is captured from the northern pavilion. On the far end of the image is the southern pavilion with two floors. The pavilion on the right (i.e., west side) is ornate and provides a beautiful view of the Generalife gardens and the Alhambra.

Patio de la Acequia (Court of the Irrigation Canal), a part of the Generalife Palace in Granada, Spain
Patio de la Acequia (Court of the Irrigation Canal)

As the name suggests, the court has an irrigation canal, which runs through its center. Built in the Nasrid period, it provided water for the exotic plants in the court. On its sides are the narrow terraces with water sprouts spurting water into the canal, creating a beautiful display of semi oval-shaped water jets crossing each other.

The hedges of myrtle bushes run along the outer edges of the terraces. The beds used for cultivating flower plants, bushes, and fruit trees are on both sides of the canal. The Nasrids imported some of these plants, including a variety of rose bushes and jasmine creepers, from different parts of the world, choosing them for the colorfulness and fragrance of their flowers. The plants with their colorful flowers and a pleasant aroma created a delightful atmosphere in the court.

The image on the left shows highly ornate pavilion with large arched windows surrounded by Islamic calligraphy. As you can see, they provide a beautiful view of the gardens.

The image on the right shows the sunken wooden ceiling of a pavilion on the west side of the Patio de la Acequia. This is a great example of Mudรฉjar art, a style of decoration originated in Moorish Spain and is a fusion of Islamic and Christian art. There are many rooms in Nasrid Palaces and Generalife with ceilings decorated with Mudรฉjar art.

Patio de la Sultana – Sultana’s Court

Patio de la Sultana (Sultana's Court) in the Generalife, Granada, Spain
Patio de la Sultana (Sultana’s Court)
Pond with a fountain in the Patio de la Sultana (Sultana's Court) in the Generalife, Granada, Spain
Pond with a fountain in the Patio de la Sultana (Sultana’s Court)

The image shows the Patio de la Sultana (Sultanaโ€™s Court) located adjacent to the Patio de la Acequia (Court of the Irrigation Canal).

The court has a water-filled ditch surrounding the rectangular platform. At the center of this platform is a square pond in the middle flanked by two garden patches, each surrounded by a hedge of myrtle bushes. There is a basin with a fountain at the center of the pond. As you can see from the image, several water sprouts on the platform and the corridors are spurting water, creating semi oval-shaped water jets.

Cypress Tree and the Legend of the Abencerrajes

Cypress tree of the Abencerrajes Legend Fame standing in the Patio de la Sultana of the Generalife Palace in Granada, Spain
Cypress tree of the Abencerrajes legend standing in the Patio de la Sultana

Standing on the eastern side of the court is the dried-up tree trunk of a cypress tree, which experts believe was alive during the Nasrid period and lived for 600 years. A popular legend is centered around this cypress tree, and because of this legend the court is also known as the Patio del Ciprรฉs de la Sultana (Sultanaโ€™s Cypress Tree Court).

As you can see from the image, there is also a small plaque next to the tree trunk. The Spanish text in the plaque refers to this cypress tree to describe the story that is central to the Legend of the Abencerrajes.

The plaque says :

Cuenta la leyenda que este ciprรฉs de la sultana fue testigo de la amorios de un Caballero Abenceraje y la esposa de Boabdil

Here is a rough translation:

Legend has it that this Cypress Tree of the Sultana was a witness to the love affair of an Abencerraje Knight and Boabdilโ€™s wife.

According to the legend, Moryama (Maryam bint Ibrahim al-โ€™Attarthe), the wife of Muhammad XII (known as Boabdil, the last Sultan of Granada), had an affair with a knight belonging to the Abencerrajes, a warrior clan fiercely loyal to the Nasrids. The lovers used to meet underneath the shade of this cypress tree in the moonlight.

Plaque describing the Abencerrajes legend in the Patio de la Sultana (Sultana's Court) in the Generalife Palace, Granda, Spain
Plaque describing the Abencerrajes legend in the Patio de la Sultana (Sultana’s Court)

A courtier eventually discovered their secret and revealed it to the Nasrids. Enraged by the affair, Boabdil ordered the killing of the members of the Abencerrajes clan. He invited them for a meeting at his palace. The unsuspecting members accepted the invitation and gathered in a hall. While they were waiting for the king, his guards closed the doors of the hall and assassinated as many as 30 of them.

Although there is no historical or archaeological evidence to prove that this event ever took place, the fascinating story of romance and the palace intrigue has caught the imagination of people and helped to keep the mystique of the Alhambra alive.

The hall where the alleged killings took place became known as Sala de los Abencerrajes (Hall of the Abencerrajes), which is a part of the Palace of Lions in the Nasrid Palaces, located in the Alhambra.

Upper Gardens

Patio de la Sultana Staircase in the Generalife, Granada, Spain
Patio de la Sultana Staircase
Escalera del Agua - Water Stairway in the Generalife, Granada, Spain
Escalera del Agua – Water Stairway

A staircase on the south end of the Patio de la Sultana leads to the upper gardens of the Generalife. The image shows the arched gateway above that staircase. As you can see, there are two lion statues atop this gateway.

Besides numerous gardens, the upper level of the Generalife consists of the Escalera del Agua (Water Stairway), Mirador Romรกntico (Romantic Viewpoint), and Casa de los Amigos (House of Friends).

The image shows part of the stairway know as the Escalera del Agua (Water Stairway) situated in the upper gardens of the Generalife.

The stairway consists of three levels of steps. At the end of each level is a circular-shaped terrace with a fountain at its center. Built atop the wall on each side of the stairway is a narrow canal with the water flowing down. The shade from the trees in the surrounding gardens and the water running in the canals keep the place cooler and make the uphill walk pleasant for visitors.

Mirador Romรกntico - Romantic Viewpoint - Obseravtory located at the highest point on the Generalife, Granada, Spain
Mirador Romรกntico – Romantic Viewpoint

In the Nasrid era, this stairway led to a small oratario (oratory or prayer hall) that existed at the upper end of the stairway, which happens to be the highest point of the Generalife. The royals used this stairway to climb up to the oratario to pray and then relax watching the panoramic view of the surrounding areas.

A small observatory known as the Mirador Romรกntico (Romantic Viewpoint), which is shown in the image, replaced the oratory in the 19th century. The structure does not fit well with the rest of the buildings in the Generalife because it is not a Nasrid-era building. Built in 1836 by Don Jaime Traversa, the administrator of the Generalife at that time, Mirador Romรกntico is a neo-gothic style building.

Related Pages
Alhambra:
โ€“ Alhambra โ€“ Discover the magic of the Alhambra
โ€“ Palacios Nazarรญes โ€“ Nasrid Palaces โ€“ A Shining Example of Moorish Art and Architecture
โ€“ Los Jardines del Partal โ€“ The Gardens of the Partal
โ€“ Alcazaba โ€“ A Formidable Fortress of the Nasrids
โ€“ Medina, the Bustling City of the Nasrids
โ€“ Alhambra โ€“ Christian-Era Monuments
โ€“ Alhambra โ€“ Outer Monuments
Real Alcรกzar of Seville:
โ€“ Pedro I Palace โ€“ A masterpiece of Mudรฉjar art and architecture

Copyright ยฉ 2020 โ€“ 2023 by YatrikaOne. All rights reserved.

Alhambra: Alcazaba

A Formidable Fortress of the Nasrids

Located strategically on the western end of Sabika Hill, the Alcazaba is a fortress used by the Nasrid rulers to defend the Alhambra, the center of power of the Emirate of Granada. Because of its hilltop location, many kingdoms that came before them built fortifications in this site. Experts believe that even a Roman fortification existed here.

Realizing the importance of the strategic location, Mohammed I (1238โ€“1273), the founder of the Nasrid dynasty, decided to build a fortress over a structure that already existed since 889 CE. He made it his residence and oversaw its construction. The version of the fortress he built consisted of three towers, Torre Quebrada (Broken Tower), Torre del Homenaje (Tower of Tribute), and Torre de la Vela (Tower of Vigil), all of which are still standing.

After the fall of the Nasrids, the Christian kingdoms used it for defensive purposes. Later, like all other structures in the Alhambra, it fell into disrepair after long neglect. The major restoration work started in the 19th century and continued until the early 20th century.

Entrance and Plaza de Los Aljibes

The structure shown in the image is the east-facing facade of the wall on the east side. This wall has a small door in the middle used by visitors to enter the fortress. Above the entrance is Torre Quebrada, also known as the Broken Tower, and to its right is the Torre del Homenaje, also known as the Keep. As mentioned before, these two are the original towers of the Alcazaba.

Alcazaba Entrance and Plaza de Los Aljibes located at Alhambra in Granada, Spain
The Alcazaba Entrance and Plaza de Los Aljibes

The open space in front of the eastern wall is known as the Plaza de Los Aljibes (Plaza of the Cisterns) because of the cisterns built there by the Christian kings soon after they took over the Alhambra. When they were no longer useful, public space was created by filling them up and planting some trees and bushes. As you can see from the image, the open space in front of the Alcazaba wall is full of people who are sitting and relaxing.

The Plaza de Los Aljibes has also been a venue for numerous cultural events. The image below shows a plaque written in Spanish embedded into the exterior of the eastern rampart. It lists the important events that took place in the Plaza de Los Aljibes.

A plaque on the Alcazaba wall
A plaque embedded into the Alcazaba wall

Here is the list:
1922 โ€“ Concurso de Cante Jondo โ€“ The Cante Jondo contest for Flamenco singers
1927 โ€“ Autos Sacramentales โ€“ These are religious dramas unique to Spain that are played during the feast of Corpus Christi
1952 โ€“ Primer Festival de Mรบsica y Danza โ€“ The First Music and Dance Festival
1976 โ€“ XXV Aniversarios del Festival โ€“ 25th Anniversary of the Festival held in 1952

The plaque was installed in 1976 to commemorate the 25th Anniversary of the first Music and Dance Festival held in 1952.

Towers on the Eastern Wall

Eastern part of the Alcazaba located at the Alhambra in Granada, Spain
The eastern part of the Alcazaba

The image shows a view of the west-facing facade of the eastern wall as seen from the Torre del Vela. As you can see from the image, the Torre Quebrada is in the middle and Torre del Homenaje to its left. The small semi-circular structure next to the Torre del Homenaje is the Torre del Cubo.

The area in front of the eastern wall is called the Plaza de las Armas (which is explained in the next section). Behind the eastern wall is the Palacio Carlos V (Charles V Palace) and to its right is the Iglesia de Santa Marรญa de la Alhambra (Church of St. Mary of the Alhambra). Just below the hill on the far end are the buildings belonging to the Generalife.

Torre del Homenaje located on the northeast corner of Alcazaba at Aljambra in Granada, Spain
Torre del Homenaje

As you can see from the image, Torre del Homenaje is a robust square-shaped tower with battlements (parapet with openings at regular intervals) and merlons (construction that projects upwards) on all four sides of its terrace. This strategically located tower was used for both defensive and offensive purposes. The crenels (space between the merlons) were used for mounting the guns and embrasures (vertical slits) below the battlements used for observation.

Because of its location, Torre del Homenaje provides a vantage point for the surveillance of the Alhambra and the surrounding areas. Mohammed I lived there in the beginning and oversaw the construction of the Alcazaba.

Plaza de las Armas โ€“ The Garrison of Alcazaba

Plaza de las Armas - The Garrison of Alcazaba located on the western part of Alhambra in Granada, Spain
The Plaza de las Armas – The Garrison of Alcazaba

Although Plaza de las Armas means Plaza of the Weapons, it actually refers to an interior area of the fortress consisting of military quarters and storage facilities for weapons and other supplies needed for the defense of the Alhambra.

The ruins consisting of the foundation walls that you see in the image belonged to the Barrio Castrense, which is a Nasrid-era residential area consisting of houses occupied by the military commanders and soldiers stationed in the Alcazaba. As you can see, each house has an entrance, a central hall and other rooms, and a lavatory. One of the houses is larger than the others, and it most-likely belonged to the head of the garrison. It also has a small pool at the center. It is believed that Mohammed I, the founder of the Nasrid dynasty, moved his residence from the Torre del Homanaje to this house after its construction.

Torre de la Vela – The Tower of Vigil

Alcazaba - Torre de la Vela and Plaza de las Armas
The Torre de la Vela and Plaza de las Armas

Located on the western part of the Alcazaba, Torre de la Vela, also known as the Watch Tower, is an iconic structure that provides a 360-degree panoramic view of the surrounding areas. As mentioned before, it is one of the three towers built by Mohammed I.

With four floors and a terrace, it is the tallest tower in the Alcazaba. It also has three underground floors and a dungeon. The iconic bell tower on the terrace was not part of the original construction. The Christian kings, who took over the Alhambra, installed the bell to warn residents living in the surrounding areas of attacks and other emergencies. The tower got its name because of this bell. Velar in Spanish means to keep vigil. So, the Torre de la Vela is a tower that keeps vigil.

Terrace of the Torre de la Vela located on the western part of the Alcazaba at Alhambra in Granada, Spain
The Torre de la Vela terrace with a bell and flags

The tower sustained severe damages due to a variety of catastrophic events, including an explosion and earthquake, occurred during the post Nasrid period. It included the ripping off of the original battlements and breaching of part of the tower.

The image below shows a spectacular view of the snow-clad Sierra Nevada Mountains, as seen from the terrace of the Torre de la Vela. In Spanish, Sierra means mountain range, and Nevada means snowfall. As the name suggests, a lot of snow falls in these mountains. Because of the abundance of snow, they have become a popular tourist attraction, especially with skiing enthusiasts. .

Sierra Nevada Mountains - A view from Torre de la Vela of Alcazaba located at Alhambra in Granada, Spain
Sierra Nevada Mountains – A view from the Torre de la Vela

Related Pages
Alhambra:
โ€“ Alhambra โ€“ Discover the magic of the Alhambra
โ€“ Palacios Nazarรญes โ€“ Nasrid Palaces โ€“ A Shining Example of Moorish Art and Architecture
โ€“ Los Jardines del Partal โ€“ The Gardens of the Partal
โ€“ Alcazaba โ€“ A Formidable Fortress of the Nasrids
โ€“ Medina, the Bustling City of the Nasrids
โ€“ Alhambra โ€“ Christian-Era Monuments
โ€“ Alhambra โ€“ Outer Monuments
Generalife:
โ€“ Heavenly Gardens of the Nasrids
Real Alcรกzar of Seville:
โ€“ Pedro I Palace โ€“ A masterpiece of Mudรฉjar art and architecture

Copyright ยฉ 2020 โ€“ 2023 by YatrikaOne. All rights reserved.

Alhambra: Gardens of the Partal

Located between the Medina (i.e., city) and theย Nasrid Palaces, the area covered by the present Gardens of the Partal was mostly residential during the Nasrid era. Because of the convenient location, the people who worked in the palaces lived in this area. Medina, which had shops, baths, and mosques, was nearby and met their daily needs.ย 

After the Christian kings took over the Alhambra, the houses and other buildings in this area fell into disrepair. A major restoration of the Alhambra took place from 1923 to 1936, during which period this area became an archaeological site. Excavations of this site led to the discovery of numerous Moorish houses and even a palace attributed to Yusuf III. The gardens in this area are a modern construction and were part of the restoration that in the 1930s.

The Gardens of the Partal consists of few buildings near the Nasrid Palaces and the gardens built on the slopes north of the upper Alhambra. The two main buildings in this area are 1. Torre de las Damas (Tower of the Ladies) 2. Oratorio del Partal (Oratory of the Partal).

Torre de las Damas (Tower of the Ladies)

Torre de las Damas (Tower of the Ladies), a building with an open portico located in the Partal Gradens, Alhambra, Granada, Spain
Torre de las Damas (Tower of the Ladies)

Built sometime between 1302 and 1309 CE during the reign of Muhammed III, the Torre de las Damas (Tower of the Ladies), which used to be called the Partal, is one of the oldest buildings in the Alhambra. Partal means portico in Arabic. The Gardens of Partal got its name because of this building.

It had many modifications and renovations done to it over the years, but eventually, it was neglected and fell into disrepair. Fortunately, it underwent a significant restoration in 1924, and the beautiful building you see now is the result of that restoration.

As you can see from the image, the Tower of the Ladies consists of a tower, a hall, and an open portico. Resting on the marble pillars of the portico are the five arches. Only the middle arch, which is higher than the other four, belonged to the original building.

The image on the left shows the ceiling of the portico of the Tower of the Ladies. As you can see from the image, the ceiling has several repetitive geometrical patterns, including many recessed octagons, arranged symmetrically with a deeply-recessed multi-angled niche at the center.

The beautifully decorated wooden ceiling shown in the image is a delight to watch and is a great example of Mudรฉjar art, a style of decoration originated in Moorish Spain and is a fusion of Islamic and Christian art. There are many rooms in Nasrid Palaces and Generalife with ceilings decorated with Mudรฉjar art.

The image on the right shows the hall behind the portico of the Tower of the Ladies. As you can see from the image, it offers a great view of the city of Granada.

Oratorio del Partal

An interior view of the Oratory, a building located in the Partal Gradens, Alhambra, Granada, Spain
Interior of the Oratory showing the mihrab

The image shows an interior view of the Oratorio del Partal (Oratory of the Partal), a small building next to the Tower of the Ladies. Attributed to Yusef I (1333-1354), the seventh and one of the most prominent ruler of the Nasrid dynasty, the Oratory was a house of prayer, which was used by the sultan for namaz (prayer). It was first restored in the 1930s, then again in 2017 to the present form.

As you can see from the image, the highly decorated wall has a niche, known as mihrab, oriented towards the Kaaba of Mecca. The upper part of the mihrab has a beautiful arch surrounded by a square border carved with Islamic calligraphy. Beautifully carved arabesques fill the space between the arch and this border. The wall above the mihrab has two decorative windows, and surrounding it are arabesques and Islamic calligraphy.

Note: Arabesque is a repetitive pattern of foliage or geometrical designs found in decorations of Islamic architecture.

Also seen in the image is part of the ceiling, which is ornate with finely-carved wooden panels. It is also an example of Mudรฉjar art mentioned above.

Gardens

Built on the slopes north of the upper Alhambra and east of the Nasrid Palaces, the gardens consist of several terraces with reflecting pools, fountains, flower beds, and nicely trimmed hedges of bushes enclosing plants and trees.

The image on the left shows a terrace on the west side of gardens. At the far end is the Iglesia de Santa Marรญa de la Alhambra (Church of St. Mary of the Alhambra), and to its right is Palacio Carlos V (Charles V Place).

On the right, a low brick wall with a white plaque is part of the remnants of Palacio de Yusuf III (Yusuf III Palace). The archaeological excavation in the 1930s led to the discovery of this palace. Based on the type of construction and the artifacts found in the site, experts attributed it to Yusuf III (1408-1417), the thirteenth ruler of the Nasrid dynasty. However, experts also believe that a much older construction attributed to Muhammad II (1273-1302), the second ruler, existed in this site, and the Yusuf III Palace was a modified version of that building.

The image on the right shows a terrace on the north side of the gardens. As you can see from the image, the Tower of the Ladies is at the far end.

Related Pages
Alhambra:
โ€“ Alhambra โ€“ Discover the magic of the Alhambra
โ€“ Palacios Nazarรญes โ€“ Nasrid Palaces โ€“ A Shining Example of Moorish Art and Architecture
โ€“ Los Jardines del Partal โ€“ The Gardens of the Partal
โ€“ Alcazaba โ€“ A Formidable Fortress of the Nasrids
โ€“ Medina, the Bustling City of the Nasrids
โ€“ Alhambra โ€“ Christian-Era Monuments
โ€“ Alhambra โ€“ Outer Monuments
Generalife:
โ€“ Heavenly Gardens of the Nasrids
Real Alcรกzar of Seville:
โ€“ Pedro I Palace โ€“ A masterpiece of Mudรฉjar art and architecture

Copyright ยฉ 2020 โ€“ 2023 by YatrikaOne. All rights reserved.

Alhambra

Discover the Magic of the Alhambra

Located on top of Sabika Hill and overlooking the picturesque city of Granada in southern Spain, the Alhambra is one of the most fascinating historical sites in the world. It is home to monuments belonging to two dominant, but distinct cultures of the world, i.e., Islamic culture from North Africa and Christian culture from Europe. Built side-by-side, these monuments are a testament to Spain’s strong multi-cultural roots. The Alhambra along with the nearby Albaicรญn area and the Generalife was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1984.

Derived from an Arabic word al-qalโ€™a al-hamra, which means the red one, the name Alhambra likely referred to the red fortress that existed on the current Alcazaba site. As some Moorish poets put it, the Alhambra was a pearl set of emeralds. At its peak, with the lavish palaces and sprawling gardens, it was like a heaven on earth. The Alhambra now presents a glimpse of its past glory, showcasing the grandeur and beauty of its edifices.

The Alhambra is unique in many ways. To name a few, the usage of mathematics in architecture and decoration and showcasing of Islamic art in a strongly Christian country. The mesmerizing patterns on the walls and ceilings are a blend of mathematics and art. The Alhambra was the inspiration for the development of many modern mathematical concepts.

The Alhambra is a massive complex of fortresses, palaces, towers, and gardens covering an area of 26 acres. The River Darro flows in the north, and the Sabika valley lies in the south. Because of its strategic location, many variations of fortifications existed in Sabika Hill, starting from the Roman period. However, it was largely forgotten until Muhammed I, the founder of the Nasrid dynasty and the Emir of the Kingdom of Granada, realized its strategic importance and started building forts and palaces in the 13th century. Later, Yusuf I made it a royal palace, and it remained so until the Reconquista captured it.

Although the Nasrids were an Islamic dynasty with strong roots in North Africa, they often allied with the Christian kings during the Reconquista. During their rule, the relationship between Christians and Muslims was mostly amicable. Granada was the last Islamic bastion to fall to the Reconquista, and it was bloodless. The Nasrids employed a lot of Christian artisans to build and decorate the edifices. As a result, a blend of Christian and Islamic art evolved in the Alhambra.

Glowing Tributes to Alahmar, the founder of the Alhambra

Tombstone that pays tributes to Alahmar, the founder of the Alhambra mouted on a wall near the Gate of the Pomegranates in Granada, Spain
Paying tributes to Alahmar, the founder of the Alhambra

Mounted on the wall near the Gate of the Pomegranates, one of the entrances to the Alhambra, is a tombstone that pays touching tributes to Alahmar, the founder of the Alhambra, and glorifies the its beauty. The author of the poetic words etched in this tombstone is Francisco Villaespesa Martรญn (1877 โ€“ 1936), a famed Spanish poet and writer with close ties to Granada. Here is a rough English translation of these poetic words:

โ€œTo Alahmar, the most distinguished man of the house of NASAR, the founder of the Alhambra.

Because you surpassed the limits of Time and space by making all the beauties of nature pale when by creating the wonders of this citadel to gird the glory and immortality of the divine temples of the distinguished and unique city, you receive the moving tribute from Granada and with it the admiration and respect of the world.

The cry of your banished children who, even in the solitude of the desert, in the light of the stars, dream of the paradise of your enchanted halls.

Do not fear the ravages of time or the fickleness of fortune, because your overflowing zeal was eternalized in the marvel of these enclosures.

Even though the shadows of these walls may not last, their memory, which will always be everlasting, will remain as the only possible refuge of dreams and art.

And then the last nightingale, who flutters over the world, will make its nest and sing chants of farewell amongst the glorious ruins of the Alhambra.

F. Villaespesa.โ€

Pedestrian Path to the Alhambra

A site map of the Alhambra located near the city of Granada in Spain
A site map of the Alhambra and Generalife

The Alhambra monuments are on the hilltop. If you are going there on foot, there is a well-paved pedestrian path starting at the Puerta de Las Granadas (Gate of the Pomegranates) located at the foot of Sabika Hill. If you are walking from the city center, take Cuesta de Gomรฉrez Street from Plaza Nueva to arrive at this gate. The distance from Plaza Nueva to the Alhambra monuments via this gate is about 3/4 of a mile.

Note that there is another entry point via Cuesta del Rey Chico. However, the path via Gate of the Pomegranates is much more interesting because of the monuments along the way. 

The image shows an area map of the Alhambra and Generalife placed near this gate.  The pedestrian path from the gate to the main entrance is a paved road and goes uphill. As you walk up, you’ll encounter the Alhambra forest on both sides. After walking a few hundred feet from the gate, the roads fork into two; The right path goes to the Crimson Towers, the Manuel de Falla Auditorium, and the left path leads to the Alhambra. As you walk further, you’ll arrive at the Washington Irving Monument. A few feet from there, you climb a flight of steps to reach the Pillar of Carlos V. Then you go via the Puerta de la Justicia (Gate of Justice) to arrive at the Alhambra.

For detailed information on the monuments along the pedestrian path, check this page: Alhambra – Outer Monuments.

Alhambra Monuments

Once you reach the top, you can view the monuments from both the Nasrid and Christian periods. The Nasrid-era monuments include the Puerta del Vino (Wine Gate), Alcazaba, Palacios Nazarรญes (Nasrid Palaces), and Gardens of the Partal. The Christian-era monuments include Palacio Carlos V (Charles V Palace), and Iglesia de Santa Marรญa de la Alhambra (Church of St. Mary of the Alhambra).

The image shows a magnificent view of the Alhambra buildings with the backdrop of the Sierra Nevada Mountains. This view was captured from the Generalife located on the hill adjacent to the Alhambra.

An external view of the Alhambra from the Generalife
A view of the Alhambra captured from the Generalife

On the far left (i.e., south) is the Iglesia de Santa Marรญa de la Alhambra (Church of St. Mary of the Alhambra). The longitudinal building next to it is the Palacio Carlos V (Charles V Palace).

At the far end (i.e., west) is the Torre de la Vela, a tower with a bell and flags located at the west end of the Alcazaba. In front of it are the Torre del Homenaje and Torre Quebrada. The tower on the far right is the Tower of Mohammed.

At the near end (i.e., east) is the Gardens of the Partal with Torre de las Damas (Tower of the Ladies) and Oratario on the right and attached to the wall.

Behind the Gardens of the Partal and between Palacio Carlos V and Tower of Mohammed are the buildings belonging to the Nasrid Palaces that include Mexuar, Comares Palace, and Palace of Lions.

Nasrid Era – The Golden Age of the Alhambra

During the Nasrid period, the Alhambra was a self-contained citadel with a defensive wall around it, and within this wall, there were three main areas.

  1. Royal Residences – Now known as the Nasrid Palaces, these were the residences of the sultan where he and his close relatives lived and conducted the state business. These are were built on the slopes on the northern part of the hill.
  2. Alcazaba – This was the fortress made of ramparts and watchtowers. It also provided housing for the troops stationed here to defend the royals. It occupies the western end of Sabika Hill.
  3. Medina – This is the city that served the needs of the people living in the palaces and the military. It was on the south side and covered the area on the upper part of the hill. Not much is left of the city now because many Christian era monuments were built in this area, and Napoleon’s retreating troops, who occupied the Alhambra from 1808 to 1812, blew up part of it in 1812 when they withdrew from Granada.

Nasrid Palaces

Located on the northern end of Sabika Hill, the Nasrid Palaces is the most popular tourist attraction in the Alhambra. The Nasrid Palaces require tickets to visit, and depending on the season, you may have to buy them well in advance. Besides the Nasrid Palaces, the Alhambra has many impressive attractions, including the Alcazaba, Partal Gardens, and Medina. Although the Generalife, which is located on a different hill on the other side of the valley, is not considered part of the Alhambra, most tourists visit it after the Alhambra tour because of the easy access from the Alhambra. The Nasrid Palaces visit lasts about two hours, and you can complete the entire Alhambra and Generalife tours in half a day.

The Nasrid Palaces consist of three main palaces, which are: Palacio del Mexuar, Palacio Comares (Comores Palace), and Palacio de los Leones (Palace of the Lions). The visit starts at the entrance near the north facade of the Palacio Carlos V and ends at the Partal Gardens.

Read More: Palacios Nazarรญes – Nasrid Palaces – A Shining Example of Moorish Art

Gardens of the Partal

The Gardens of the Partal (Los Jardines del Partal) used to be part of the Nasrid Palaces and had buildings and houses occupied mainly by the nobility and the people related to the palace. Partal means portico in Arabic.

In the 1930s, beautiful gardens replaced the Partal ruins. As a result of excellent planning and landscaping, these gardens blends with its natural surroundings. The Gardens of the Partal consists of several restored buildings near the Nasrid Palaces and the gardens built on the slopes north of the upper Alhambra. The two main buildings in this area are: 1. Torre de las Damas (Tower of the Ladies) 2. Oratorio del Partal (Oratory of the Partal).

Read More: Los Jardines del Partal – The Gardens of the Partal

The images below show the views of the buildings and gardens.

Alcazaba

Located strategically on the western end of Sabika Hill, the Alcazaba is a fortress used by the Nasrid rulers to defend the Alhambra, the center of power of the Emirate of Granada. Because of its hilltop location, this site attracted many kingdoms in this region to build fortifications there. Experts believe that even a Roman fortification existed in this site.

Realizing the importance of the strategic location, Mohammed I (1238โ€“1273), the founder of the Nasrid dynasty, decided to build a fortress over a structure that already existed since 889 CE. He oversaw its construction and made it his residence. The version of the fortress he built consisted of three towers, Torre Quebrada (Broken Tower), Torre del Homenaje (Tower of Tribute), and Torre de la Vela (Tower of Vigil), all of which are still standing.

After the fall of the Nasrids, the Christian kingdoms used it for defensive purposes. Later, like all other structures in the Alhambra, it fell into disrepair after long neglect. The major restoration work started in the 19th century and continued until the early 20th century.

Read More: Alcazaba – A Formidable Moorish Fortress

Medina

The Alhambra was a self-contained citadel in the Nasrid period. The city, known as the Medina, served the daily needs of the palace and the people working there. It was a bustling city with shops, industrial houses, public baths, mosques, and residential quarters. The residential quarters provided housing for the common people, including artisans and civil servants, and the nobility. The ruins of the original Medina are in the east end of the Alhambra.

The main street of the city, known as Calle Real (Royal Street), ran from the east end of the Alhambra to west side near the Puerta del Vino (Wine Gate). A part of that trail still exists and other Christian era structures were built.

Most of the original Nasrid structures in the Medina are now gone. The Christian kings who took over the Alhambra built structures over them. Napoleon, who occupied the Alhambra from 1808 to 1812, blasted many of them while retreating. What remains now are the foundations of some structures and some restored buildings.

Read More: Alhambra: Medina – The Bustling Nasrid City

Related Pages
Alhambra:
โ€“ Discover the magic of the Alhambra
โ€“ Palacios Nazarรญes โ€“ Nasrid Palaces โ€“ A Shining Example of Moorish Art and Architecture
โ€“ Los Jardines del Partal โ€“ The Gardens of the Partal
โ€“ Alcazaba โ€“ A Formidable Fortress of the Nasrids
โ€“ Medina, the Bustling City of the Nasrids
โ€“ Alhambra โ€“ Christian-Era Monuments
โ€“ Alhambra โ€“ Outer Monuments
Generalife:
โ€“ Heavenly Gardens of the Nasrids
Real Alcรกzar of Seville:
โ€“ Pedro I Palace โ€“ A masterpiece of Mudรฉjar art and architecture

Copyright ยฉ 2020 โ€“ 2023 by YatrikaOne. All rights reserved.

Alhambra: Palacios Nazarรญes (Nasrid Palaces)

A Shining Example of Moorish Art and Architecture

Known for the grandeur and unique Islamic art, the Palacios Nazarรญes (Nasrid Palaces) is a complex of interconnected palaces built by the Nasrids, a powerful dynasty originated in North African and ruled the Emirate of Granada over a period of 260 years. Besides using the palaces as their residences, the Nasrid rulers used them to conduct the state business, including the administration and meeting with the local and foreign dignitaries.

Located on the northern end of Sabika Hill, the Nasrid Palaces are the most popular tourist attractions in the Alhambra. The opulence and lavishness of the palaces make visitors feel like they are in a paradise on earth.

The Nasrid Palaces require tickets to visit, and depending on the season, you may have to buy them well in advance. Besides the Nasrid Palaces, the Alhambra has many impressive monuments, including the Alcazaba, Partal Gardens, and Medina. The Generalife is not considered part of the Alhambra because it is located on a different hill on the other side of the ravine separating them. However, most tourists visit it after the Alhambra tour because of the easy access from the Alhambra. The Nasrid Palaces visit lasts about two hours, and you can complete the entire Alhambra and Generalife tours in half a day.

While the exterior of the palaces appears to be an unimpressive jumble of buildings (See the image), the well-designed and exquisitely decorated interiors are impressive works of art.

An external view of the Nasrid Palaces located at Alhambra in Granada, Spain
An outer view of the Nasrid Palaces

The palaces consist of highly decorated rooms arranged in a quadrangular fashion with a court in front. Some courts have fountains with running water, and the others have reflecting pools or gardens. The rooms have finely carved ceilings, some with mocรกrabes (Read Note 1 below). The doorways and windows are arched, and the walls around them are embellished with arabesques (Read Note 2 below) and Islamic calligraphy.

The palaces evolved gradually over the years during the Nasrid rule. During this era, many rooms were added, extended, and removed. Once the Christian rulers took over the Alhambra, they too remodeled and renovated the palaces, but fortunately maintained its original Moorish character by keeping the basic structures, and most of its architectural elements, and beautiful decorations.

The Nasrid Palaces consist of three main palaces, which are: Palacio del Mexuar, Palacio Comares (Comores Palace), and Palacio de los Leones (Palace of the Lions).

Palacio del Mexuar – Mexuar Palace

The Maxuar palace is one of the first palaces to be built in the Alhambra and changed the most. The building of the original place took place during the reign of Ismail I (1314 – 1325), the fifth ruler of the Nasrid dynasty, who usurped the direct descendant of the founder and created the second Nasrid dynasty. Later, a significant rebuilding of this palace occurred during the reign of Muhammad V (1354โ€“1359, 1362โ€“1391), the eighth ruler of the Nasrid dynasty.

During the Christian era, An explosion in 1590 destroyed most of the western part. As a result, there is very little left from the original palace. Nobody is sure how the original building looked like; What you see now is a small portion of the original on the eastern part.

The Maxuar Palace is where the visitors enter the Nasrid Palaces. The images below show a part of the main hall. Supporting the ceiling of this hall are the four pillars, each of which is surmounted by the corbels at the top. The image on the right shows the wall and the corbels on the eastern part of this hall. As you can see, the beam and wall are ornate with arabesques and Islamic calligraphy. The beautifully decorated wooden ceiling is from the Christian era and is a great example of Mudรฉjar art (Read Note 3).

Palacio Comares – Comares Palace

The construction of this palace began during the reign of Yousef I (1332-1354), the seventh ruler of the Nasrid dynasty, and completed by his son Mohammed V (1354โ€“1359, 1362โ€“1391). Once completed, it became the official residence of the emirs.

The Comares Palace consists of the following:

  1. Patio de los Arrayanes – Court of the Myrtles
  2. Rooms and Halls surrounding the Court of the Myrtles
  3. Cuarto Dorado – Gilded Room and the patio
  4. Royal bath

Cuarto Dorado – Gilded Room

The Gilded Room is located next to the Maxuar Palace.

As you can see from the image on the left, the walls are ornate with arabesques and Islamic calligraphy. The room has doorways with arches and finely-carved decorative windows above the arches. The Nasrid Palaces have many rooms in this style of decoration.

As you can see from the image on the right, the wooden ceiling is recessed and engraved with beautiful gold-colored patterns. The room got its name because of these gold-colored decorations.

The Gilded Room ceiling is an excellent example of Mudรฉjar art, which is a blend of Islamic and Christian art created mainly by Christian artisans.

Patio de los Arrayanes – Court of Myrtles

The Patio de los Arrayanes (Court of the Myrtles) is a quadrangular court with a pool surrounded by well-trimmed hedges of myrtle bushes (hence the name Court of the Myrtles). Situated at the northern and southern and ends of the pool are the fountains, and behind the fountains are the corridors, each with seven exquisitely embellished arches.

The image on the left shows a view of the north corridor with the Comares Tower behind it. The image on the right shows a view the south corridor with a gallery on the upper floor, which has seven arches, just like the floor below. As you can see, the middle arch of the corridors is higher than the other six.

Located west of the Court of the Myrtles is the Gilded Room (Cuarto Dorado), and east is the Palace of the Lions. The visitors enter the Court of the Myrtles through the Gilded Room and walk east to enter the Hall of the Mocarabes of the Palace of the Lions.

Palacio de los Leones – Palace of the Lions

Built by Mohammed V (1362 – 1391), the Palace of the Lions is the most impressive part of the Nasrid Palaces. The palace building reached its crescendo during his rule.

Map of the Palace of of the Lions located inside the Nasrid Palaces in Alhambra, Granada, Spain
Map of the Palace of of the Lions and recommended path for the visitors

It lies between the Comares Palace and the Partal. In the center is the Patio de los Leones (Court of the Lions), which is a rectangular court surrounded by four halls.

This map shows the recommended path for the visitors to navigate in the Palace of the Lions. It is on display at the Court of the Lions corridor.

As you can see from the map, visitors first enter the Sala de los Mocรกrabes, which is on the west, and leave through the Mirador de Lindaraja.

Here is the list of rooms and halls:
A. Sala de los Mocรกrabes โ€“ Hall of the Mocรกrabes
B. Patio de los Leones โ€“ Court of the Lions
C. Sala de los Abencerrajes โ€“ Hall of the Abencerrajes
D. Sala de los Reyes โ€“ Hall of the Kings
E. Sala de las Dos Hermanas โ€“ Hall of the Two Sisters
F. Mirador de Lindaraja โ€“ Viewing Windows of Lindaraja

Patio de los Leones โ€“ Court of the Lions

Court of the Lions located inside the Nasrid Palacesin in Alhambra, Granada, Spain
The Court of the Lions

Commissioned by the Mohammed V and built in the second part of the 14th century, the Court of the Lions is a masterpiece of Moorish architecture in Spain.

As you can see from the image, the Court of the Lions is a rectangular court surrounded by arched corridors, behind which are the four famous halls of the Nasrid Palaces. Located west of the court is the Hall of the Mocรกrabes, north is the Hall of the Abencerrajes, east is the Hall of the Kings, and south is the Hall of Two Sisters.

At the center is a fountain built with sculptures of 12 lions and a dodecagon-shaped (12-sided polygon) basin is resting above them. The Court of the Lions got its name because of these 12 lions.

Sala de los Mocรกrabes – Hall of the Mocรกrabes

Hall of the Mocarabes located inside the Nasrid Palaces in Alhambra, Granada, Spain
The Hall of the Mocarabes

Located west of the Court of the Lions, the Sala de los Mocรกrabes is a hall with an oval-shaped ceiling previously covered with a dome of the Mocรกrabes. It got its name because of this dome, which was dismantled after an explosion in the 16th century. Check the map of the Palace of the Lions for its location.

Although this hall is beautifully decorated, it is less glamorous than the other three halls that surround the Court of the Lions . The visitors to the Court of the Lions enter this hall before walking to the other halls in the Palace of the Lions.

The image shows a part of the ceiling depicting the court of arms of the Nasrid dynasty.

Sala de los Abencerrajes โ€“ Hall of the Abencerrajes

A sidewall with two arches of the Hall of the Abencerrajes located inside the Nasrid Palaces in Alhambra, Granada, Spain
The Hall of the Abencerrajes – A sidewall with two beautifully decorated arches

Located north of the Court of the Lions, the Hall of the Abencerrajes is ornate with beautiful geometric designs on its walls and ceiling. It has a central hall and a corridor with two archways. The image shows a sidewall with two beautifully decorated arches on the doorway leading to a corridor.

The Hall of the Abencerrajes owes its name to the legend of the Abencerrajes, a warrior clan from North Africa. According to this legend, 30 of them were assassinated in this room by the orders of the Sultan of Granada, who suspected a member of the clan was having an affair with one of the ladies of the royal family. However, there is no historical or archaeological evidence to support the occurrence of this event. Read more on this legend: Cypress Tree and the Legend of the Abencerrajes

A view of the ceiling of the Hall of the Abencerrajes inside the Nasrid Palaces in Alhambra, Granada, Spain
Hall of the Abencerrajes – A view of the ceiling

The view above the central hall is especially stunning. As you can see from the image, the ceiling looks like a honeycomb constructed with small and colorful cells of different geometric shapes, including triangles and rectangles. Such honeycomb structures are called dome of the mocรกrabes (similar to muqarnas of Persian origin). Below the roof and covering the entire hall is a deck whose balustrades form a hexadecagon (a polygon with 16 sides).

Sala de los Reyes โ€“ Hall of the Kings

The ceiling of the Sala de los Reyes (Hall of the Kings) located inside the Nasrid Palaces in Alhambra, Granada, Spain
The Hall of the Kings – A view of the ceiling

Located east of the Court of the Lions, Sala de los Reyes (Hall of the Kings) is one of the most interesting halls in the Nasrid Palaces, mainly because of the three paintings on its ceiling (see the images below). It is also known as the Justice Hall.

At the center of this rectangular-shaped hall is the main room flanked by two bedrooms on the sides. Connecting the main hall to the bedrooms are the exquisitely decorated double arch doors.

A corridor separates this hall and the Court the Lions, and the three beautifully decorated arched doorways connect this corridor to the hall.

The image above shows a view of the ceiling of the Hall of the Kings. It looks like a honeycomb constructed with small and colorful cells of different geometric shapes, including triangles and rectangles.

The images show the three paintings on the ceiling of the Hall of the Kings. These were painted on a sheepskin leather sheet and attached to an oval-shaped wooden vault of the ceiling.

The lower painting depicts the first ten kings of the Nasrid dynasty. The Hall of the Kings got its name because of the this painting. The other two painting depict everyday life and fighting and hunting scenes Although the paintings depict the legends of the kings of the Nasrid dynasty, they were most likely painted by the Christian painters during the reign of Mohammed VII (1395 โ€“ 1410 CE) or Yusuf III (1410 โ€“ 1424 CE).

Sala de las Dos Hermanas โ€“ Hall of Two Sisters

Part of the ceiling and wall of the Hall of the Two Sisters located inside Nazrid Palaces in Alhambra, Granada, Spain
The Hall of Two Sisters – Part of the ceiling and wall

Located south of the Court of the Lions, the Hall of Two Sisters is ornate with beautiful geometric designs on its walls and ceiling.

Just like the Hall of Abencerrajas, the ceiling of this hall has the dome of the mocรกrabes, however, the design is different. The small colorful cells are organized to form concentric geometrical shapes.

Below the roof and covering the entire hall is a deck whose balustrades form an octagon. The wall is also highly decorated, and there is a niche in the wall with a beautiful arch.

A view of the ceiling of Hall of Two Sisters located inside Nazrid Palaces in Alhambra, Granada, Spain
The Hall of Two Sisters – A view of the ceiling

As you can see from the image, the outermost shape is almost a circle and enclosed within this circle is a hexadecagon (a polygon with 16 sides). Enclosed within this hexadecagon is an octagon (a polygon with 8 sides), and within this octagon, there are many concentric shapes. Below the roof and covering the entire hall is a deck whose balustrades form an octagon. It is a delight to the eyes to view these mesmerizing geometric designs.

Mirador de Lindaraja โ€“ The Viewing Windows of Lindaraja

Sala de los Ajimeces and Mirador de Lindaraja - Halls located inside in Nasrid Palaces in Alhambra, Granada, Spain
The Sala de los Ajimeces and Mirador de Lindaraja

The image shows a beautiful view captured from the Hall of Two Sisters. At the far end of the image is the Mirador de Lindaraja (Mirador de Daraxa), and at the near end is the Sala de los Ajimeces (Hall of the Ajimeces). These two halls are located east of the Court of the Lions.

As you can see from the image, a beautifully decorated arched door from the Sala de los Ajimeces leads to the Mirador de Lindaraja. Just like the other halls in these palaces, the walls are filled with arabesques and Islamic calligraphy, and the ceiling is decorated with mocรกrabes.

With its two beautifully decorated arched windows, the Mirador de Lindaraja provides a spectacular view of the gardens outside the Patio of the Lindaraja. However, the mirador (lookout) is now closed to the visitors.

The Patio de Lindaraja (Court de Lindaraja) โ€“ also known as the Jardines de Daraxa (Garden of Daraxa) โ€“ is a square-shaped patio enclosing a lovely garden on all four sides. Each side has a portico with arched columns made of marble and a gallery upstairs. This image was captured from one of the galleries.

A view of Patio de Lindaraja located inside Nazrid Palaces in Alhambra, Granada, Spain
The Patio de Lindaraja

At the center of the garden is a beautiful marble fountain, which dates back to 1626, and the basin was first at the Patio del Cuarto Dorado (Patio of the Gilded Room). The garden has several pentagon-shaped bushes and tall trees, including cypress, orange, and acacia.

Notes

Note 1: Mocรกrabes are unique to Islamic architecture in Andalucian Spain and are similar to Muqarnas (which is of Persian origin). They are decorative elements consisting of recurring geometrical patterns, which appear like honeycombs. Typically used in vaults, mocรกrabes are a symbolic representation of the cave where Prophet Muhammad received his revelation.

Note 2. Arabesque is a repetitive pattern of foliage or geometrical designs found in decorations of Islamic architecture.

Note 3: The term Mudรฉjar refers to the Moors who stayed in the Iberian Peninsula after the Christian retook the land ruled by the Moors.

Related Pages
Alhambra:
โ€“ Alhambra โ€“ Discover the magic of the Alhambra
โ€“ Palacios Nazarรญes โ€“ Nasrid Palaces โ€“ A Shining Example of Moorish Art and Architecture
โ€“ Los Jardines del Partal โ€“ The Gardens of the Partal
โ€“ Alcazaba โ€“ A Formidable Fortress of the Nasrids
โ€“ Medina, the Bustling City of the Nasrids
โ€“ Alhambra โ€“ Christian-Era Monuments
โ€“ Alhambra โ€“ Outer Monuments
Generalife:
โ€“ Heavenly Gardens of the Nasrids
Real Alcรกzar of Seville:
โ€“ Pedro I Palace โ€“ A masterpiece of Mudรฉjar art and architecture

Copyright ยฉ 2020 โ€“ 2023 by YatrikaOne. All rights reserved.

Somanathapura Keshava Temple

A Masterpiece of Hoysala Temple Art

Located 24 miles east of Mysore in Karnataka, India, the Keshava Temple in Somanthapura is a shining example of Hoysala architecture. Although not as famous or as big as the Belur – Halebidu temples, it is as stunningly beautiful and ornate. Built in 1258 CE, more than 100 years after the Belur – Halebidu temples, it is a testament to the continued patronage of arts, crafts, and temple building by the Hoysala rulers.

As the name suggests, the Somanathapura Keshava Temple is dedicated to Keshava, one of the numerous titles of Krishna, who is also the eighth avatar of Vishnu. An unusual feature of this temple is its three garbhagrihas (sanctum sanctorum). Standing inside each garbhagriha is a beautiful sculpture of Krishna, and towering above it is an ornate shikhara (conical-shaped tower) with a kalasa (inverted pot-like structure) at the top. Because of the three garbhagrihas, it is known as the trikuta temple. Note: With a single garbhagriha, the Belur Chennakeshava Temple is an ekakuta temple, and with two garbhagrihas, the Halebidu Hoysalesvara Temple is a dwikuta temple.

A bit of history

The history of the Somanathapura Temple and details of its construction is well documented in several Hoysala and Vijayanagara inscriptions. The area around the present-day Somanthapura, located on the banks of the Cauvery River, was under the Chola rule before the Hoysala King Vishnuvardhana captured it in 1117 CE.

Inscription slab standing inside the Mahadwara (main door) of the Somanathapura Keshava Temple in Karnataka, India
Stele erected inside the Mahadwara (main door) pavilion

According to an inscription (see the stele in the image), Somanatha, a Dandanayaka (military leader) serving under King Narasimha III (1254 – 1291 CE), took the permission from him to build a temple and established an agrahara (see the note below) and named it Vidhyanidhi Prasanna Somanathapura (Treasure of knowledge, Auspicious Somanathapura) for this purpose. Somanatha also allotted grants for the maintenance of the temple.

Note: In ancient India, agrahara is an area allocated for religious purposes by the king or the nobility to provide housing for the people (typically Brahmins) who maintain the temple.

The temple was consecrated in 1258 CE. However, it is not clear when the building of the temple began and ended. It is believed that it took 68 years to complete.

During his expedition to the south in 1311 CE aimed at grabbing precious treasures from the temples and monuments, Malik Kafur – a general under Allaudin Khilji, the ruler of the Delhi Sultanate – plundered this temple and left it badly damaged. The temple then underwent significant renovations and modifications in the 15th century during the Vijayanagara period. Later in the 20th century, the erstwhile princely state of Mysore took a keen interest in this temple and renovated it further.

Unlike the Belur – Halebidu temples, it is not an active temple because of the damaged idols in the garbhagrihas. It is now maintained by the ASI (Archaeological Survey of India).

Temple Complex

Mahadvara - Outer entrance to the Somanathapura Keshava Temple in Karnataka, India
Mahadvara – Entrance to the temple complex

The entrance to the temple complex is through the Mahadvara (great door) located on the east side. As you can see from the image, Mahadvara has a doorway with a pavilion on each side. Extending these pavilions is the eastern wall of the prakara (a protective wall enclosing the temple). Erected inside the left pavilion is a stele inscribed with the dates and details of the construction of the temple.

The temple is surrounded by the galleries on the south, west, and north sides. Attached to the galleries are 64 mini shrines, which are empty because the invading armies of Malik Kafur destroyed the sculptures and looted the treasures underneath them.

Entrance

Facade and Entrance of the Keshava Temple located at Somanathapura in Karnataka, India.
Facade and Entrance of the Somanathapura Keshava Temple

The Keshava Temple is on a star-shaped platform called Jagati, with only one entrance, which is on the east side. The approach to the doorway is through two flights of steps. The first flight of steps is from the floor to the platform, and flanking it are two mini shrines with missing idols. The second flight of steps is from the platform to the doorway.

The facade of the temple is not as ornate as Belur – Helebidu temples because most of the original facade was destroyed during the Malik Kafur attack. As you can see, the replaced elements of the facade are of different color from the rest.

The architecture of the temple is a harmonious blend of the southern Dravida and northern Nagara styles and is known as the Vesara style. The conical-shaped tower, known as shikhara (a.k.a vimana), above each garbhagriha follows the Nagara style design, and the front portion of the temple follows the classic Mantapa style design.

The temple is symmetrical about the east-west axis. In other words, the south-side layout is a mirror image of the north side (and vice-versa).

Exquisite interior

Just like the other Hoysala temples, the mantapa (covered hall) in front of the garbhagrihas conforms to the navaranga design. The navaranga is a 3×3 grid of nine rectangular sections. The middle section of the navaranga is known as the sabhamantapa (community hall). An ante-chamber, known as antarala, separates each garbhagriha from the navaranga. The porch in front of the navaranga is called the mukhamantapa.

Garbhagrihas

As mentioned earlier, the temple has garbhagrihas in three cardinal directions, i.e., south, west, and north. All three garbhagrihas are equal-sized chambers, each with a statue of Krishna in the middle and an ornate doorway in front. The relief on the lintel of each door depicts a mini version of the statue standing in the garbhagriha.

The south in the garbhagriha is dedicated to Venugopala, the west to Keshava, and north to Janardhana. All three are a form of Krishna, the eighth avatar of Vishnu. The south and north garbhagrihas have the original statues, whereas the west garbhagriha has a replica of the original.

The statues in the south and north garbhagrihas are monolithic sculptures carved from Krishna Shilรฉ (black stone), which is available in plenty in Karnataka.

South – VenuGopala

Venugopala - Sculpture of Krishna playing the flute standing inside the south garbhagriha of the Somanathapura Keshava Temple in Karnataka, India
Venugopala – Krishna playing the flute inside the south garbhagriha

Standing inside the south garbhagriha on the star-shaped platform is an exquisitely carved life-size statue of Venugopala, a form of Krishna portrayed as a divine flute player. Venu means flute and Gopala means one who protects of cows.

As you can see from the image, Venugopala is standing gracefully with his legs crossed. He has elegantly bent his well-proportioned body to allow him to raise his hands to position the flute (which is partly broken) perfectly at the mouth level.

Venugopala is elegantly dressed with a beautiful skirt-like dress and is wearing jewelry all over his body. He is wearing bracelets and arm rings on his hands, anklets on his legs, beautiful necklaces around his neck, and an udiyana (waist chain) around his waist. There is a looped thread, known as yajnopavita, hanging across the chest from the left shoulder to the waist. It is a symbol indicating the person wearing it has mastered Vedas and undergone the Upanayana ceremony and is worn by gods and deities.

Venugopala is standing on a star-shaped pedestal. Carved at the center is a relief depicting kneeling Garuda, who is Vishnu’s vehicle. Surrounding him are cows and gopikas (cow herding girls who are associates of Krishna) listening to his music.

West – Keshava

Keshava - Sculpture of Vishnu standing inside the west garbhagriha of the Somanathapura Keshava Temple in Karnataka, India
Keshava – Sculpture of Vishnu standing inside the west garbhagriha

Keshava is also another name for Krishna. Kesha means hair, and Keshava is the one who has long uncut hair.

The original statue went missing, most likely after the attack by Malik Kafur. The currently installed statue is a replica built by using the Keshava relief carved on the lintel of the doorway as a reference. As you can see, the quality of the craftsmanship of the statue is inferior compared to the sculptures on the other two garbhagrihas. It also appears to be smaller.

Keshava is a chaturbhuja (i.e., one who has four arms). He holds shanka (conch) and padma (lotus) with his right hands and holds chakra and gada (mace) with his left hands. These are the signature objects that are part of Vishnu’s iconography (Read under Vishnu with Standard Iconography for more info ).

North – Janardhana

Janardhana - Sculpture of Vishnu standing inside the north garbhagriha of the Somanathapura Keshava Temple in Karnataka, India
Janardhana – Sculpture of Vishnu standing inside the north garbhagriha

The image shows the sculpture depicting Janardhana, a manifestation of Krishna, standing inside the north garbhagriha.

Just like Venugopala and Keshava, Janardhana is also another name for Krishna. Jana means people and ardhana means to worship. Janardhana means the one who is worshiped by the people.

Just like Keshava, Janardhana is chaturbhuja (i.e., one with four arms) and is holding four standard emblems of Vishnu, shanka, padma, gadaa, and chakra. Notice that the order in which Janardhana is holding these objects is different from Keshava.

Like Keshava and Venugopala, Janardhana is wearing a beautiful skirt-like dress and jewelry all over his body. He is wearing bracelets and arm rings on his hands, anklets on his legs, finely carved necklaces and garlands of gems/flowers around his neck, an udiyana (waist chain) around his waist, and a looped thread, known as yajnopavita, hanging across the chest from the left shoulder to the waist.A finely carved crown adorns Janardhana’s head, which has a halo around it. Just like the other two statues, the Kirthimukha monster is at the top.

Notice his torso closely. It appears like the face of a cow (i.e., the nipples look like its eyes, and the belly button looks like its mouth). This is to indicate Janardhana is a gopala, i.e., protector of cows

As in the case most of the sculptures in this temple, there are two female figures at the bottom. Each is holding a lotus bud/ corn cob with on one hand, and a kalasa (pot) with the other.

Ceiling carved with mesmerizing patterns

The ceiling of the navaranga has 16 finely-carved rectangular sections, i.e., the navaranga has nine sectors, and the mukhamantapa (porch) has seven sections. The ceiling within each section – which is enclosed by beams placed on top of pillars – is a finely carved vault cut from a single stone.

The theme of the carvings is different phases of a blooming lotus bud. The lotus bud at is surrounded by a variety of geometrical patterns at different levels.

The images below show the lotus bud is at the center surrounded by several geometrical patterns carved at different levels of the conical shape. The pattern at the outer most level is an octagon.

Magnificent exterior

Like many other Hoysala temples, the temple stands on a star-shaped stone platform, known as Jagati. The stone exterior wall surrounding the temple is ornate with a repertoire of stunningly beautiful artwork and sculptural reliefs.

Each garbhagriha is surrounded by a circular outer wall and above the outer wall is a conical-shaped tower with multiple levels of densely carved reliefs. As you can see from the image, the outer wall has three sections:

  1. Base – Six bands of continuously carved friezes
  2. Middle – Sculptural reliefs. It appears as though each sculpture is within a shrine.
  3. Top – Decorative carvings just below the eaves. typically craved like the tower of a shrine

Attached to the outer wall are pillars with sculptural reliefs of gods and goddesses and other deities and do not appear to be carved in any particular order or following any story line.

Because this is a Vishnu temple, the majority of the reliefs are related to Vishnu, including the standard iconography of Vishnu depicting him with four hands, each with his signature objects and some of Vishnuโ€™s ten avatars.

Vishnu with Standard Iconography

Vishnu carved on the outer wall of the Somanathapura Keshava Temple in Karnataka, India
Vishnu carved on the outer wall

Vishnu, one of the Trimurti , is the supreme god who preserves the order and maintains harmony in the universe. Vishnu is typically depicted as a man with four arms, each holding one of the following four objects:

  1. Shanka : It is a conch shell named Panchajanya that emerged as a by-product during the Samudra Manthana. It was responsible for the creation of the panchabhootas (five elements), which are: water, fire, earth, and sky. When blown, it produces giant primeval sound.
  2. Chakra: It is a disc-like weapon named Sudarshana (which means a good view). The disc has serrated edges. When fired, it spins and moves with a rapid force to destroy evil and then returns to Vishnu.
  3. Gada: It is a mace named Kaumodaki and represents strength
  4. Padma: It is a sacred lotus flower that represents beauty, purity, and evolution

The order in which Vishnu holds his objects vary. With four hands, there are a total of 24 combinations, and sometimes a combination indicates a particular form of Vishnu.

As you can see from the image, Vishnu is standing on a padma peeta (lotus pedestal) mounted on a base. Engraved into this base is an inscription, written in the Halegannada (Old Kannada) script, which reads as Mallithamma. It is the signature of Ruvari Mallithamma, the most prolific carver of sculptures in the Somanathapura Keshava Temple and many Hoysala temples built in his time.

Ashtabhuja Vishnu (Eight-Armed Vishnu)

Astabhuja (8-armed) Vishnu carved on the outer wall of south garbhagrihaof the Somanathapura Keshava Temple
Astabhuja (8-armed) Vishnu

As mentioned in the previous section, carvings of Vishnu with standard iconography depict him with four arms, but this relief has eight. Notice that two of them are missing.

Besides his signature objects, shanka (conch), and padma (lotus), Vishnu in this relief is holding a beautifully carved dhanush (bow) and a bฤna (arrow) with his left and right hands, respectively. The two missing hands at the bottom likely carried his other signature objects, chakra and gadฤ.

Notice that Vishnuโ€™s two hands in front do not carry any objects. They do, however, make specific gestures, known as mudras. In Hinduism and Buddhism, each mudra has a name and meaning and symbolizes the state of mind and intentions of the person making it.

As you can see from the image, the palm of one of Vishnuโ€™s right hands is upright and faces outwards. This gesture is known as Abhaya Mudra, which symbolizes fearlessness and reassurance. The palm of one of his left hands faces upwards, with its fingers slightly pointing downwards. This gesture is known as Vara Mudra (a.k.a Varada Mudra), which symbolizes charity and compassion.

As with the other Vishnu sculptures, he is standing on a padma peeta (lotus pedestal) accompanied by two small female figures located at the bottom.

Check the other Ashtabhuja Vishnu sculptures:
Ashtabhuja Vishnu in Angkor Wat, Cambodia
Ashtabhuja Vishnu in Cave โ€“ 3 of rock-cut cave temples of Badami in Karnataka, India.

Majestic Maha Vishnu seated on Adishesha

Seated majestically on a cushion formed by Adishesha, a seven-headed mythical serpent, is Maha Vishnu, a form of Vishnu represented as a supreme being. This beautifully carved sculptural relief is mounted on the outer wall surrounding the south garbhagriha.

Maha Vishnu seated on Adisesha - A relief carved on the outer wall of the Somanathapura Keshava Temple in Karnataka, India
Maha Vishnu seated on Adisesha

As you can see, Adishesha has created a beautiful throne for Maha Vishnu by stacking up his soft coils to form its cushion and raising his seven-headed hood as its canopy.

It appears that Maha Vishnu is in a relaxed mood, indicated by his pleasant facial expression and informal way of sitting. As you can see, one of his left hands gently rests on the knee of his elevated left leg with its foot placed above the coils, while one of his right hands, which firmly rests on the coils, supports the weight of his body that is leaning slightly to his right.

Adishesha is known by many names, including Shesha, Sheshanaga, and Ananta. Hidden in these names are two interesting mathematical concepts, remainder and infinity. In Sanskrit, shesha means one that remains (i.e., remainder), and ananta means endless (i.e., infinity). In other words, Shesha will prevail even after the end of the universe, and Ananta will exist for eternity.

Check the similar images in other temples:
Vishnu seated on Adishesha โ€“ A beautiful sculpture carved in the mukhamantapha (veranda) of Cave โ€“ 3 of rock-cut caves of Badami .
Vishnu reclining on Adishesha โ€“ An intricately carved relief on the outer wall of the Belur Chennakeshava Temple

Lakshminarayana

Lakshminarayana
Lakshminarayana
Garuda carrying Lakshminarayana mounted on the outer wall of the Somanathapura Keshava Temple in Karnataka, India
Garuda carrying Lakshminarayana

The sculptural relief on the left depicts Lakshminarayana, a form of Vishnu presented with his consort Lakshmi, and is one of the most beautiful sculptures in the temple. As you can see, Vishnu (as Narayana) is seated leisurely on his throne with his consort Lakshmi on his lap. This relief is mounted on the outer wall of the north garbhagriha.

Lakshminarayana is a combination of two names, Lakshmi and Narayana. Narayana is another name of Vishnu, and it means one who dwells on the water. In Sanskrit, Nara means water and Ayana means dwelling. According to Hindu mythology, Vishnu lives on the cosmic ocean.

As you can see, three of Vishnuโ€™s four arms are missing, and the remaining one holds a gadaa (mace). Lakshmi is holding a kalasha (pot) with her left hand and lotus (top part is broken) with her right hand. Her right leg is gently resting on a lotus cushion, and her other leg is resting on Vishnuโ€™s lap with the half-padmasana pose. Lakshmiโ€™s vehicle, an elephant, is standing next to the lotus cushion. Vishnuโ€™s vehicle, Garuda, is kneeling with the folded hands (namaste gesture) at the left end. Notice that his head is missing.

As per the signature at the bottom of the Lakshminarayana sculpture, Mallithamma is the carver. His attention to detail is striking. For instance, the top part of the lotus cushion is carved with a slight bend to indicate that Lakshmi is resting her leg on it.

The relief on the right is also about Lakshminarayana. In this relief, Garuda, who has a human-like body with a bird-like face, carries a smaller version of Lakshminarayana with his left hand. As you can see, Garuda is dressed elegantly and wearing fine jewelry all over his body. Adorning his head is an intricately carved mukuta (crown).

Dashavatara – Ten Incarnations of Vishnu

According to Hindu mythology, whenever there is a crisis in the universe, Vishnu, the preserver, intervenes to restore order and maintain harmony by manifesting himself in different forms, sometimes human and sometimes anthropomorphic. These manifestations (or incarnations) of Vishnu are known as avatars. The Dashavataras are the ten standard avatars, according to ancient Indian texts, including the Puranas, although there is no complete agreement on the eight and ninth avatars.

The avatars of Vishnu are spread across all four yugas (epoch), which are, Satya, Treta, Dwapara, and Kalki. Here is the list of all ten avatars:

  1. Matsyavatara โ€“ Anthropomorphic – Human body with the fish face. See the image on the left.
  2. Kurmavatara โ€“ Anthropomorphic – Human body with the turtle fave. See the image on the right
  3. Varahavatara โ€“ Anthropomorphic – Human body with the wild boar face. See the image on the left below
  4. Narasimhavatara โ€“ Anthropomorphic – Human body with the lion face and claws. See the image on the right below
  5. Vamanavatara โ€“ Human
  6. Parashurama โ€“ Human
  7. Rama – Human
  8. Krishna โ€“ Human
  9. Buddha Human
  10. Kalki โ€“ Human – Kalki is riding a galloping white horse

The avatars of Vishnu are spread across all four yugas (epoch), which are, Satya, Treta, Dwapara, and Kali. The first five avatars occurred during the Satya Yuga, the sixth and seventh during the Treta Yuga, and eight and ninth during the Dwapara Yuga. The last avatar hasn’t occurred yet. According to Hindu mythology, the Kalki avatar will appear at the end of Kali Yuga.

The outer wall around the south garbhagriha has the first four avatars of Vishnu shown.

Matsyavatara

Matsyavatara -The first avatar of Vishnu carved on the outer walls of the Somanathapura Keshava Temple in Karnataka, India
Matsyavatara – The first avatar of Vishnu

In this avatar, Vishnu manifests himself into a half-fish half-human form to save humanity from the Maha Pralaya (Great Flood). According to the story, Vishnu appeared before King Satyavrata, also known as Manu, in a half-fish half-human form warning him of a Maha Pralaya that would occur for seven days and destroy all forms of life. To save them from from the deluge, he instructed Manu to build a boat to hold all kinds of life forms. Manu then built a gigantic boat and held pairs of living creatures and plants and seeds. When the deluge began, Vishnu appeared again in the half-fish half-human form to help Manu. Using Vasuki as the rope, he towed the boat safely to the mountains in the north, i.e., Himalayas.

The story of Noah and the great flood in the Bible is strikingly similar to the Matsyavatara story. Numerous cultures in the world also tell similar stories.

The iconography of Vishnu in Matsyavatara has two forms: 1. Upper half-human and lower half-fish 2. Fish face and the rest human-like. The iconography of the sculpture shown in the image follows the second form. It portrays him with the face of a fish and the body of an Ashtabhuja (eight-armed) Vishnu. Notice that three of his hands are missing. The two of his remaining hands hold lotus and chakra, his signature objects. The rest hold an akshamala (rosary) and a book. He is wearing an elegant dress and beautiful jewelry. He is adorned with a finely carved mukuta (crown) on his head with a halo behind it.

Kurmavatara

Kurmavatara -The second avatar of Vishnu carved on the outer walls of the Somanathapura Keshava Temple in Karnataka, India
Kurmavatara -The second avatar of Vishnu

In this avatar, Vishnu assumes half-man half-turtle form during the Samudra Manthana (Churning of the Ocean of Milk), which was a collaborative effort by devas (demigods) and asuras (demons) to produce amrita, the nectar of immortality. Using the seven-headed snake called Vasuki as the rope and Mount Mandara as the churning rod, the devas and asuras tugged Vasuki to churn the ocean for thousands of years to produce amrita. Vishnu assumed the form of a turtle and went under Mount Mandara to enable churning.

The image depicts Vishnu with the face of a turtle. The rest of the body is human with four hands, two of which are holding chakra and shanka, his signature objects. The other two are holding an egg-like object known as Hiranyagarbha, or the cosmic golden womb. In Sanskrit, hiranya means golden, and garbha means womb. According to both the Rigveda and Yajurveda, Prajapathi, an deity who eventually became a form of Brahma, was born from this womb. However, they differ in what he created. The Rigveda says the Pajapathi created abstract entities like mana (mind), kama (desire), and tapas (austerity). As per the Yajurveda, he created the sky, earth, seasons, devas, asuras, etc.

Varahavatara and Narsimhavatara

Varahavatara and Narasimhavatara are related. Vishnu slays an evil asura named Hiranyaksha with Varahatara and then kills his brother Hiranyakashipu with Narasimhavatara.

Varahavatara -The third avatar of Vishnu carved on the outer walls of the Somanathapura Keshava Temple in Karnataka, India
Varahavatara โ€“ The third avatar of Vishnu
Lakshmi is seated on the lap of Narasimha, the fourth avatar of Vishnu, carved on the outer walls of the Somanathapura Keshava Temple in Karnataka, India
Narasimhavatara – The fourth avatar of Vishnu

Varahavatara is the third of the ten avatars of Vishnu. Varaha in Sanskrit means wild boar. In this avatar, he assumes the form of a wild boar and rescues Bhudevi (Mother Earth) from an evil demon named Hiranyaksha, who was tormenting her.

In Narasimhavatara, Vishnu has a manโ€™s torso with a lionโ€™s face and claws. Narasimha in Sanskrit mean lion-man. He adopted this body to kill an asura named Hiranyakashipu, who wanted to take revenge on Vishnu for killing his brother Hiranyaksha in his previous avatar, i.e., Varahavatara.

Other incarnations of Vishnu

Mohiniavatara - A sculptural relief depicting female avatar of Vishnu carved on the outer wall of Somanathapura Keshava Temple in Karnataka, India
Mohiniavatara – A female avatar of Vishnu
Danvantari - Sculptural relief carved on the outer wall of the Somanathapura Keshava Temple, Karnataka, India.
Danvantari

The incarnations in the two images emerged during the Samudra Manthana.

Dhanvantari is the god of medicine in Hindu mythology. According to the Bhagavad Purana, he is an incarnation of Vishnu, who emerged with a pot of amrita during the Samundra Manthana .

As you can see from the image, he is carrying a kalasha (pot) with his right hand and a bowl with medicines with his left hand. His two missing hands most-likely carried shanka and chakra.

Mohiniavatara is a female avatar of Vishnu and just like Dhanvantari, she also is a by-product of Samudra Manthana (Note: Moha means Infatuation or crush. Mohini means a seductress).

Once the churning produced amrita, asuras cleverly stole all of it. When Vishnu realized that asuras have amrita, he appeared as a young beautiful woman, a femme fatale, who enticed asuras and successfully grabbed amrita back from them and gave it to the devas.

Other gods, goddesses and deities

Brahma and Sarasvati

Brahma carved on the outer wall of Somanathapura Keshava Temple in Karnataka, India
Brahma, the creator
Sarasvati, the goddess of knowledge and learning, carved on the outer wall of the Somanathapura Keshava Temple in Karnataka, India
Sarasvati, the goddess of knowledge and learning

In Hindu mythology, Brahma is responsible for the creation and is one of the Trimurti (Hindu Trinity) and the other two being Vishnu and Shiva. He is typically shown with four heads, each facing a cardinal direction, and four hands.

This relief is carved on a pillar on the exterior wall surrounding the south garbagriha. As you can see from the image, Brahma has three heads (the assumption is that the fourth head [facing east] is not visible), and four hands, two on each side, and each carrying an object.

He is carrying a spoon (used for pouring ghee into the yagna pyre) and japamala (prayer beads) with his right hands, a kamandala (water jug) and a book (Vedas) with his left hands.

Although Brahma is the creator in Hindu mythology, he is not worshiped as widely as Vishnu or Shiva. There are very few temples dedicated to Brahma in the world. The Brahma Temple in Prambanan (in Yogyakarta, Indonesia) is one of the few temples dedicated to Brahma. The other well-known Brahma Temple is in Pushkar, Rajasthan, India.

Sarasvati is the goddess of knowledge and learning. Sarasvati means one that flows. During the Vedic times, she was the deity represented the Sarasvati River, an ancient river that used to flow in the northwest region (present-day Afganistan and Pakistan) but dried up 3000 years go. Later texts associated her with Brahma and made her his consort.

The relief shown in the image is not the usual representation of Sarasvati. Her standard iconography shows her playing the veena, a sitar-like musical instrument. She is typically shown with two hands and occasionally four, and in this relief, however, she has eight hands (three of which are missing). Instead of the veena, she is holding a talegari (book made of palm leaves) with two of her hands. The talegari indicates that she is the goddess of knowledge and learning.

It appears from Sarasvati’s stance that she is dancing with a traditional Indian dance move. Accompanying her are the two musicians at the bottom (one of them is missing).

Indra and Surya

Indra and Indrani riding Airavata - A relief carved on the outer wall of the Somanathapura Keshava Temple in Karnataka, India
Indra and Indrani riding Airavata
Surya, the sun god, carved on the outer wall of the Somanathapura Keshava Temple in Karnataka, India
Surya, the Sun God

The image on the left shows a beautifully carved sculptural relief depicting Indra, the king of Swarga and devas (demigods), seated majestically on his vehicle Airavata, a white elephant, with his wife Indrani (also known as Sachi) seated behind him.

This sculpture is mounted on the outer wall surrounding the southern garbhagriha As you can see from the image, Indra is wielding his signature weapon Vajrayuda (Thunderbolt) with his right hand and holding a lotus bud with his left hand.

The sculptural relief shown on the right depicts Surya, i.e., the Sun, as a god. As you can see from the image, Surya is holding a lotus flower with his right hand. Although the top part is missing, the object in his left hand is also a lotus flower. The lotus flowers are part of the standard iconography of Surya and were used to identify this sculpture. At the bottom of this sculpture are his consorts Saranyu and Chhaya, who are twin sisters.

Check these pages for other Surya sculptures.

  • Statue of Surya in the Nandi Temple belonging to the Prambanan Temple complex in Yogyakarta, Indonesia.
  • Surya bas-relief carved into the ceiling of the Virupaksha Temple in Pattadakal, Karnataka, India
  • Statue of Surya in the shrine behind the Nandi Mantapa situated inside the Hoysaleswara Temple complex at Halebidu in Karnataka, India

Related Pages
โ€“ Belur Chennakeshava Temple โ€“ Bracket Figures
โ€“ Belur Chennakeshava Temple โ€“ Navaranga
โ€“ Belur Chennakeshava Temple โ€“ Garbhagriha Outer Wall
โ€“ Kappe Chennigaraya Temple
โ€“ Badami, Badami Cave 1, Badami Cave 2, Badami Cave 3, Badami Cave 4
โ€“ Durga Temple at Aihole

Copyright ยฉ 2019 – 2026 by YatrikaOne. All rights reserved.

Hampi Virupaksha Temple Murals

Inspirational Paintings from the Vijayanagara Period

Dedicated to Lord Virupaksha, a local name for Shiva, the Virupakasha Temple is one of the main attractions of Hampi and has been an active temple for hundreds of years. An amazing feature of this temple is the murals painted on the ceiling of the Ranga Mantapa, the main hall in front of the garbhagriha (sanctum sanctorum).

The murals were painted more than 500 years ago at the height of the Vijayanagara Empire. Inspired by the folklore, ancient Indian texts and epics, and Kannada literature, such as Girija Kalyana by Harihara, these beautiful and expressive paintings reflect the traditions and the culture of that era. With the passage of time, the murals have faded considerably. However, some of them have been restored in recent years.

There are three distinct sections in this mural: 1. West section 2. Middle Section 3. East Section. The Virupaksha Temple is an east-facing temple, so note that the west section is near the garbhagriha and the east section is near the entrance.

The main focus of the paintings on the west section is Shiva and the celebration of his marriage to Parvati. The middle section has a beautiful lotus flower medallion carved at the center, flanked by two narrative paintings depicting stories about Shiva. The east section is about Vishnu, his avatars, and related scenes from Ramayana and Mahabharata.

West Section

Painted on the topmost panel of the eastern section are the Trimurti, Vishnu, Shiva, and Brahma, each with their consorts.

The theme of the rest of the eastern section is Girija Kalyana, the celebration of the Shiva and Parvati wedding, and is based on the epic poem authored by Harihara, an ancient Kannada poet known for his devotion to Shiva.

Girija Kalyana – Pompous wedding of Shiva and Parvati

The image below depicts the scenes at the wedding of Shiva and Parvati. Attending the wedding are the pantheon of Hindu gods, including Brahma and Shiva (the other two gods from the Hindu Trinity), Ashta Dikpalas (guardians of the eight directions), rishis (sages), devas (demigods), celestial beings such as gandharvas, yakshas, and kimpurushas (mythical creatures with the human bodies and horse or lion heads).

Girija Kalyana - Wedding of Shiva and Parvati painted on the ceiling of the Virupaksha Temple in Hampi, Karnataka, India
Girija Kalyana – Wedding of Shiva and Parvati

The rectangular frames on the topmost panel show kinnara’s on the left and right extremes, and palaces with onlookers in the middle.

The second panel from the top depicts the actual wedding ceremony. At the center is Shiva trying to hold Parvatiโ€™s hands. Standing behind Shiva is Brahma, shown with four heads, and behind Brahma is Vishnu, shown with four hands, and his wife Lakshmi, who is carrying a veena.

Behind Vishnu and Lakshmi is Narada, the matchmaker of the Shiva-Parvati alliance, and the horse-faced figure standing next to Narada is Tumburu, a gandharva considered as the best musician among the gandharvas. Notice that both Narada and Tumburu are carrying musical instruments on their shoulders.

Standing behind Parvati are her parents โ€“ Himavata and Mena โ€“ and female attendants. The figures on the last frame with the lion, horse, and elephant heads represent the mythical creatures from the forests.

The topmost panel shows kinnaras who have human heads with the bodies of birds. The panel below the wedding panel shows the ordinary people celebrating the wedding and playing music with drums and tuttooris, trumpet-like instruments. The panel below depicts Ashta Dikpalas (eight guardians of the directions).

Ashta Dikpalas – Guardians of the eight directions

Painted on each of the eight frames is a dikpala (guardian of a direction).

Ashta Dikpalas - Painting on the Hampi Virupaksha Temple ceiling
Ashta Dikpalas

Here is the list from left to right:

1. Ishana โ€“ Guardian of Eshanya (Northeast), riding Vrishaba (a bull)
2. Nirrti โ€“ Guardian of Nairutya (Southwest), riding a horse and carrying a sword
3. Vayu โ€“ Guardian of Vayuvya (Northwest), riding a gazelle
4. Varuna โ€“ Guardian of Paschima (West), riding Makara (a crocodile-like mythical creature)
5. Kubera โ€“ Guardian of Uttara (North), riding Nara (a man) and carrying a gada (mace)
6. Yama โ€“ Guardian of Dakshina (South), riding a male buffalo
7. Agni โ€“ Guardian of Agneya (Southeast), riding a ram
8. Indra โ€“ Guardian of Purva (East), riding Airavata (a white elephant) and wielding his signature weapon Vajrayuda (Thunderbolt)

Middle Section

The middle section has a beautiful lotus medallion carved at the center flanked by the following two narrative paintings.

  1. Manmatha Vijaya – Manmatha firing Kamabanas at Shiva.
  2. Tripurantaka – Shiva’s incarnation destroying three aerial cities

Manmatha Vijaya – Manmatha shooting Kamabanas at Shiva

Hamp Virupaksha Temple Murals - Manmatha Vijaya - Kama shooting Kamabanas at Shiva
Manmatha Vijaya – Kama shooting Kamabanas at Shiva

This painting shows a scene based on Shiva Purana where Manmatha (also known as Kama, Kamadeva), the god of love and carnal desire, strikes Shiva with Kamabanas (Kamaโ€™s arrows) to arouse passion and desire in meditating Shiva.

Here is the story in brief:

After the death of his wife Sati, a grief-stricken Shiva started meditating, resulting in a great imbalance in the world. Meanwhile, Sati was reborn as Parvati, and the gods wanted Shiva to marry Parvati. To accomplish this goal, Indra, the king of heaven and the devas (demigods), sends Kama to break Shivaโ€™s meditation, and arouse his passion and desire to make him love Parvati.

As you can see from the image, Kama is standing with an elegant pose inside a chariot driven by his vahana (vehicle), a parrot. Standing behind him is his consort Rathi. Seated on a majestic throne with a meditation pose is Shiva. Below him are Agni riding a ram and Parvati waiting for Shiva to open his eyes. As Kama shoots his arrows made of flowers from a sugarcane bow, Shiva opens his eyes with rage for waking him up from his meditation.

Tripurantaka – Shiva’s incarnation destroying three aerial cities

Tripurantaka - Shiva's incarnation destroying three aerial cities - painted on the ceiling of the Virupaksha Temple in Hampi, Karnataka, India
Tripurantaka – Shiva’s incarnation destroying three aerial cities

This painting depicts Tripurantaka, an incarnation of Shiva. Note: Tripura means three cities. With his incarnation, Shiva destroys three aerial cities, each belonging to a son of Tarakasura. As you can see from the image, Shiva is riding a chariot and pointing an arrow at the three cities (two of them are partly visible on the right side). The faces drawn inside the wheels of the chariot represent the moon and the sun.

Here is the story in brief:

Pleased with the three sons of Tarakasura after they perform tapasu, Brahma presents them with three aerial cities in the sky that revolve around the earth. Brahma assures them that they are indestructible, except when a single arrow pierces through them when they are aligned in a straight line.

When Tarakasuraโ€™s sons realize that they are invincible, they start tormenting the devas (demigods) and rishis (sages). The gods, including Vishnu and Brahma, urge Shiva to destroy the evil cities. Shiva agrees and makes plans to teach Tarakasuraโ€™s sons a lesson.

Vishwakarma, the god of architecture and crafts, constructs a chariot with Prithvi (Earth) as its body and Surya (Sun) and Chandra (Moon) as its wheels. He creates a bow from Mount Meru with Vasuki as its string. Brahma volunteers to become the charioteer, and Vishnu the arrow. Once the chariot is ready, Shiva waits for the precise moment for the three cities to align into a straight line and shoots an arrow that pierces through the aerial cities and destroys them.

Shiva wipes the ashes from the destroyed cities on his forehead horizontally with his three fingers, and these three lines remain permanently on his forehead from then on. Based on this legend, Shivaโ€™s devotees apply the three horizontal ash lines daily on their foreheads.

East Section

Dashavatara and Rama Sita Wedding painted on the ceiling of the Virupaksha Temple in Hampi, Karnataka, India
Dashavatara and Rama Sita Wedding painted on the ceiling of the Virupaksha Temple

The theme of the upper part of the east section is Dashavatara (ten avatars of Vishnu). Each avatar is painted in a small frame in chronological order. The Dashavatara frame is flanked by Rathi on the left and Manmatha on the right.

The lower part has three themes:
1. Draupadi Swayamvara on the lower right. Arjuna shoots at the Matsa Yantra (Fish Machine) to win Draupadiโ€™s hand
2. Wedding of Rama and Sita in the middle
3. Sita Swayamvara on the lower left. Rama lifts the bow at the King Janakaโ€™s palace to win Sitaโ€™s hand

Dashavatara – Ten Incarnations of Vishnu

The panel shown in the image below has 12 frames. Painted between the two large end frames are the ten standard avatars of Vishnu, which are in the chronological order from left to right.

Dashavatara (Ten Incarnations of Vishnu) painted on the ceiling of the Virupaksha Temple in Hampi, Karnataka, India
Dashavatara (Ten Incarnations of Vishnu)

According to Hindu mythology, Vishnu, the preserver, intervenes by manifesting himself in different forms – sometimes human and sometimes anthropomorphic – to restore order and maintain harmony in the universe. These manifestations (or incarnations) of Vishnu are known as avatars. The Dashavataras are the ten standard avatars, according to ancient Indian texts, including the Puranas, although there is no complete agreement on the eight and ninth avatars.

The avatars of Vishnu are spread across all four yugas (epoch), which are, Satya, Treta, Dwapara, and Kalki. The list below provides a brief explanation of the avatars painted in the image from left to right :

1. Matsyavatara โ€“ Human face with the body of a fish
2. Kurmavatara โ€“ Human face with the body of a turtle
3. Varahavatara โ€“ Human body with the face of a wild boar
4. Narasimhavatara โ€“ Human body with the face and claws of a lion
5. Vamanavatara โ€“ Vamana is carrying a wooden umbrella.
6. Parashurama โ€“ Parashurama is holding an ax, his signature weapon
7. Rama
8. Krishna โ€“ Krishna is killing Kaliya, a serpent causing trouble in the Yamuna River
9. Buddha
10. Kalki โ€“ Kalki is riding a galloping white horse

The first five avatars occurred during the Satya Yuga, the sixth and seventh during the Treta Yuga, and eight and ninth during the Dwapara Yuga. The last avatar hasn’t occurred yet. According to Hindu mythology, the Kalki avatar will appear at the end of the current Kali Yuga.

The two end frames depict Rathi and Manmatha. Riding a horse on the left end is Rathi, and riding an elephant at the right end is Manmatha, and each is holding a bow and an arrow.

Sita Swayamvara – Rama lifting King Janakaโ€™s bow

Note: Swayamvara is an ancient Indian practice in which girl herself chooses her husband. Swayam means self and vara means groom.

Sita Swayamvara - Rama lifting the bow - a mural painted on the ceiling of the Virupaksha Temple in Hampi, Karnataka, India
Sita Swayamvara – Rama lifting the bow

According to the story, King Janaka of Videha arranges a swayamvara for the princes who seek his daughter Janakiโ€™s (Sitaโ€™s other name) hand in marriage. The suitor must lift the bow that King Janaka inherited from his ancestors. None of the other suitors, including Ramaโ€™s nemesis Ravana, succeed in lifting it.

As you can see from the image, Rama, an avatar Vishnu who was born as a prince of Ayodhya, is lifting the King Janakaโ€™s bow above his head. Standing on the right side are Sita and her parents, Janaka and Maithili, who are anxiously watching Rama as he is lifting the bow.

Draupadi Swayamvara – Arjuna shooting at the fish revolving in the Matsya Yantra

Draupadi Swayamvara - Arjuna shooting at the fish revolving in the Matsya Yantra painted on the ceiling of the Virupaksha Temple in Hampi, Karnataka, India
Draupadi Swayamvara – Arjuna shooting at the fish revolving in the Matsya Yantra

This painting depicts a scene from the Draupadi Swayamvara episode narrated in the Hindu epic Mahabharata. According to the story, King Drupada of Panchala arranges a swayamvara for the princes who seek his daughter Draupadiโ€™s hand in marriage.

As part of this swayamvara, his sons devised a competition where the suitor must shoot a mechanical fish revolving above in the Matsya Yantra (Fish Machine) by looking only at its image in the water pond below.

As you can see from the image, Arjuna, one of the Pandavas, is looking down into the water pond to see the reflection of the mechanical fish revolving above while he is aiming the metallic bow up to shoot that fish. Draupadi, whose hand Arjuna is seeking, is standing on the right, anxiously watching Arjuna.

Related Pages

Hoysala Temples
โ€“ Belur Chennakeshava Temple
โ€” Bracket Figures, Navaranga, Garbhagriha Outer Wall
โ€“ Kappe Chennigaraya Shrine
โ€“ Somanathapura Keshava Temple
Badami Chalukya Temples
โ€“ Badami, Cave โ€“ 1, Cave โ€“ 2, Cave โ€“ 3, Cave โ€“ 4
โ€“ Durga Temple at Aihole
Khmer Temples in Cambodia
โ€“ Angkor Wat, Angkor Wat Bas-Reliefs, Banteay Srei, Angkor Thom, Ta Prohm, Bayon
Monuments in Indonesia
โ€“ Prambanan Temples, Prambanan Bas-Reliefs
โ€“ Borobudur

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